Diversity and inclusion. These are the values that the 080 Barcelona Fashion platform wanted to highlight in their latest edition held at the Sant Pau Art Nouveau Site. And it has done so in an obvious way, reinforcing in the casting of models, a wide variety of bodies that do not understand morphologies, sizes, functionalities, ages or skins that show all their richness of colour and textures. If fashion is a reflection of society, diversity is on the order of the day, it is visibly appreciated on the street and cannot be treated as an exception. For this reason, the Catalan catwalk has also encouraged designers and brands to exercise the power to favour this real change and, at the same time, to take charge of the different challenges of a changing and diverse society.
In this direction, the Catalan catwalk has taken a step further by hosting the first inclusive fashion show in Spain, through the Free Form Style brand. A government awareness initiative on body neutrality and functional diversity that is part of an action plan to combat aesthetic pressure. Founded in 2019 by Marina Vergés and Carolina Asensio, Free Form Style is positioned as a brave brand that is committed to comfort without sacrificing elegance. It is also a pioneer in designing fashion adapted to people with different disabilities with the premise of dignifying all types of bodies because fashion gives that power of dreaming and helps to promote the self-esteem of all groups.
Gratacós collaborated in the inclusive fashion show
In its debut at 080, Free Form Style teamed up with Manuel Bolaño, who was in charge of creating all the designs for the 16 models that walked the runway, including Paralympic athletes Desirée Vila and Sarai Gascón. In this first collection, Bolaño carefully studied the patterns and adapted them to the specific needs of each person, taking into account physical diversity and possible difficulties in dressing: strategically placed side zips, surprising openings to avoid uncomfortable rubbing or small details that facilitate the action of putting on and taking off a piece of clothing.
Gratacós also contributed its grain of sand in this awareness action and gave all the fabrics to the brand and the designer, so that they could devise the collection, giving free rein to creativity to transform the fabrics into surprising designs. On the catwalk there were spectacular Jacquards with checks in vibrant tones, houndstooth motifs, lace, embroidery and transparencies that gave sensuality and also sequins to provide that point of light that adds showiness. All of these fabrics were showcased in the debut collection ‘Just a perfect day’. A proposal that follows the principles of English tailoring and is influenced by the punk and new romantic movements, creating functional and comfortable pieces to dress diversity, but without forgetting fantasy because as Free Form Style defends, “having a disability does not mean not being able to be fashionable”.
A special showcase
To give this action more visibility and promote the designs exhibited on the 080 catwalk, this month of May Gratacós has dedicated the showcase of our space in Barcelona to inclusive fashion. Thus, our mannequins will be dressed in some models from the debut collection that Manuel Bolaño has made with people with functional diversity in mind. We encourage you to visit our space and take a closer look at these designs that combine comfort with fantasy.
There are powerful alliances, which work perfectly because they arise naturally and spontaneously. And the result is most impressive when a whole team of professionals coordinates to achieve a single goal which goes beyond surprise or emotion. In this cTase we are talking about the union between fashion and music through our latest collaborations which can be seen in the latest edition of Primavera Sound with some talented names within each discipline. Yes, we are pleased to say that Gratacós has jumped onto the stage via the wardrobe of three young artists with a lot of potential: Rosalía, Nathy Peluso and María José Llergo.
What was the collaboration?
Following one of our principles as a company, which is to support future professionals within the sector, whether young talents or established designers, as well as to develop cooperation with them, we faced a very motivating challenge earlier this year. The companies Dominnico, headed by the Alicante designer Domingo Lázaro Rodríguez and Colmillo de Morsa, from Barcelona contacted us offering a collaborative project which had us hooked from the very first moment. These companies were going exclusively to design the costumes of Rosalía and Nathy Peluso, designs that the artists would exhibit in person during their promotional tours around the world. In the case of Primavera Sound we also had the collaboration of Manuel Bolaño who sought to surprise with a design created for the performance of the singer María José Llergo.
These companies, which are friends and customers, were looking for something innovative, exclusive and of high quality for the costumes of the artists, something that would cause a real stir for its creativity and exclusivity! They know that we as fabric designers can count on a range of creations which meet these needs. Moreover, sometimes it is through the raw materials – in this case the fabric – that from the start the craziest ideas take their shape. And that point of slightly mad experimentation is what we adore and are entertained by ! In addition we firmly believe in the project of these three companies and the people behind them. So we were delighted to collaborate in the project of dressing three young divas of contemporary music at Primavera Sound .
For the occasion Dominnico chose a wonderful Jacquard padded in bubblegum pink with iridescent stitchings to create that stunning amazon look worn by Rosalia in her performance at Primavera Sound. That fabric was present in the corset which the Catalan artiste wore with pronounced shoulder pads . The outfit was complemented by a jacket and matching leggings, which were defined at the waist with gold appliques. This bold outfit,which was inspired by the ‘ Dirty ‘ style of Christina Aguilera also bore the design and styling of Daikyri , Rosalia’s sister.Nobody was left indifferent by this wardrobe . We should mention the sure value of Domminico , which already counts as clients other international fashion and show artists such as Lady Gaga, who has worn the brand on three occasions .
In the case of Colmillo de Morsa , the challenge was to dress Nathy Peluso , the Argentinian artist now based in Barcelona whose successful music ” is capable of making hip-hop danceable and accompanied by jazz”, and whose trap aesthetic captivates the young generation Z. They also recently designed for Berskha a capsule collection which embodied their aesthetic references. The designer Elisabet Vallecillo chose a cotton embroidery to make the countless metres of ruffles that she used to design the spectacular cascaded skirt and the top with crossed neckline worn by the Argentine artist. The embroidery was white and the designer dyed it afterwards to achieve this reddish tone so exuberant for an outfit inspired by Havana.
Finally, Manuel Bolaño was commissioned to devise a spectacular coat for María José Llergo . The Cordovan singer of 24 years , resident in the Gràcia district of Barcelona, is one of the young promises of singer-songwriting, as she writes and composes with a very unique style of flamenco rooted in and linked to her land of origin. Bolaño chose black taffeta to make for her a beautiful and impressive maxi coat that did not go unnoticed among the spectators of Primavera Sound .
The most appreciated is that in the three looks the designers respected the aesthetics of each artist, without losing their essence as creators. It is here when that magical fusion between fashion and music takes place. It is an art, through and through!
Manuel Bolaño has a new plan. It is called B and symbolizes the return of the essence of the brand. ’B’ for basic, ‘B’ for black and ‘B’ for Bolaño. A complementary collection that collects the mythical garments of the atelier with the intention of recovering the classics in patterns, fabrics and craftsman procedures, keeping that special Spanish design that makes it characteristic. Very Bolaño. We talk to the designer of this most immediate plan …
What is your plan B?
My plan B is to create a depth of wardrobe for all women with more basic garments that complement the main collection.
What do you mean by basic?
When I say basic I mean that they have to have the same quality in design and fabrics as the main collection garments. It’s a second line, but it has the same value.
“Plan B is a depth of wardrobe for all women”
Was this at the request of your clientele ? Until recently, your motto was ‘A Bolaño a year to complete your gear’ …
Yes. At times I had been told that they wanted some more classic garment, with cleaner lines, but that kept the essence of the brand. We have chosen the most sold items in the history of Manuel Bolaño and we have always reinterpreted them in black. At the moment there are 11 garments and the idea is that they are being expanded little by little with new designs.
The concept of timelessness in your brand …
Well, it’s not that they are completely timeless, but they will be garments which complement the main collection and can also be purchased on request.
Are they always going to be black garments? It shocks me because colour is part of your identity …
Always. The base will be black and maybe they will have some detail in another colour. At Christmas, for example, I had thought about putting in a touch of gold, but the main colour will always be black.
Tell me more details about the collection …
The garments are made by hand and must be fixed at the seams. The ‘Plan B’ breathes a little of the Haute Couture aesthetics of the 50s and 60s when patterns, volumes, moulage technique were the style… There are also handmade tricot garments. The fabrics we use are jacquard cotton with lamé, satin, cashmere wool … It is made to order and can be bought through the web or in the atelier. That is a guarantee that a garment will be made just for you.
“Plan B breathes a little of the aesthetics of haute couture”
And how do you operate things ?
The client sends us her measurements on the web and we work from that or else she can also come to see us physically in the new atelier. I like the customer to come to the atelier to get to know the working-area and it is a much more rewarding shopping experience.
It is a way to encourage customer loyalty …
Yes, and it’s like going back to the past. When I was little I used to go shopping with my grandmother and the shops showed her this personal and exclusive attention . I want to recover this link with the client.
By the way, you have changed the location of the studio. You are now very close to Gratacós, in the heart of Gràcia …
Yes, I am very happy with the change. In spite of the move we maintain the same philosophy, where the atelier resembles a home. I would compare the other part part of our working-area more to a laboratory where my team and I work on the design of the garments. Then the idea of the atelier is that the client feels at home and also sees how we work.
“I want the client to feel at home”
What is your link with Gratacós?
I’ve known you since I started studying and I’ve been in Barcelona for 15 years.
Do you remember how you got to know us?
Well, it was by chance, shortly after coming to Barcelona. I got lost in the city and looking for a shop I came across Gratacós’s shop window in Paseo de Gracia and thought, “Wow! What a fabric-shop !” At first I did not dare to enter out of fear or embarrassment and I think it was during the second year in the city when I was looking for specific fabrics that I was recommended the shop. It was then that I finally decided to go in and I went to look at the whole shop and fell instantly in love.
About Gratacós: “I went in the shop and fell instantly in love”
I did not know we were so impressive …
At first I had a lot of respect, in the sense that I did not know if the store was made for me, but then I met Gloria and the whole team and I totally changed my mind. Now it’s like my family, I feel at home and I like that.
Is there any Gratacós fabric in the new collection?
Yes, most of the collection of ‘Plan B’ are from Gratacós.
What challenges do you face for this year?
For now with the online store, the new studio and the collection ‘Plan B’ I have enough. Now for the moment I want to continue with these projects which certainly give me plenty to do ! He laughs…
The Gratacós questionnaire …
Your essential garment … A shirt
A fetish embroidered tulle fabric … A tulle fabric
A colour that never waivers … pink, but my favorite is the red
The designer you admire … Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Martin Margiela.
An infallible rule of style … Wear shoes with socks
Your favorite space in Barcelona… Piazza San Felip Neri
Advice for designers who start … You have to be consistent because our work is not child’s play
Your ‘leitmotif’ … Don’t be afraid
080 Barcelona Fashion Week is back for another edition. Plenty of novelties and fresh young talent determined to make a strong impression and gain a foothold in the world of fashion. And it is in this way that our fabrics are back on the catwalks with two designers that will give plenty to talk about. All positive.
Manuel Bolaño is without a doubt one of the most awaited for designers on the Catalan catwalk. As he himself says, he has a show prepared to present his collection “Palomo Cojo” for the upcoming season Autumn Winter 15/16. And moreover he is using Gratacós fabrics.
We are also anxious to see the designs presented by Pedro Covelo on the Modafad catwalk, winner of the last edition. We are sure this young designer will go as far as he wishes to and we also support him fully.
We will be there, in the first row as we do not to miss a thing. If you would also like to attend, you are in luck, because we are GIVING AWAY TWO DOUBLE PASSES; one for the Manuel Bolaño fashion show and the other for Pedro Covelo.
Manuel Bolaño: Wednesday 4th February (4pm)
Pedro Covelo: Thursday 5th February (7pm)
¿How to participate?
Leave a message in this image (here) saying which of the two shows you would like to attend. All those who participate will take part in the draw. You have until Tuesday 2nd February at 2pm to participate. Shortly after, we will publish the names of the winners on Facebook.
The passes can be collected at the Gratacós shop, in Calle Pau Claris 162 – piso 2º, Barcelona. (Monday to Friday 10am to 6pm)
Good luck to you all, we’ll see you at 080!
