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2018 is the year of the new MODA-FAD . Located in the Disseny Hub de Barcelona, the fashion association integrated in the FAD (Promotion of Arts and Design) gives voice and visibility to local designers. It is an entity formed by fashion professionals from different areas, from clothing to footwear, which presents initiatives that help to give continuity to designers with a commercial vocation, a titanic task in these times.

In April MODA-FAD emerged with a new board of directors and with commitments, challenges and projects that value the professionals of fashion, design and craftsmanship that we hope will set a new clarion cry. In this first stage of the association the designer Edgar Carrascal assumed the presidency accompanied by his right hand, Mireia Playà, who specialises in vegan footwear. Also participating in the initiative are Elisenda Oms and Elisabet Carlota of Carlota Oms, Antonio Calderón and Pau Esteve.

The spirit of the new Association for the Promotion of Fashion makes clear its intentions to defend the Barcelona brand and to seek internationalization, to contribute to the business development and the industrial fabric of the country and the “dignification” of trades related to fashion. It also has the didactic aim of sharing knowledge and assuming a teaching role in the consumption of fashion, aiming to provide the necessary tools for conscious and sustainable consumption.

The MODA-FAD Awards

Within the framework of Barcelona Design Week, the new MODA-FAD Awards are to be promoted in a ceremony and afterwards a party that will take place next Wednesday June 6 in the Disseny Hub Barcelona. Awards are aimed at recognizing the work of professionals and companies in the world of fashion and who have made contributions to the sector during the last year. In total prizes will be awarded in three different categories: Merit in Fashion Design, Merit in Fashion Innovation and Talent of the Year Award. Special recognition will also be granted to a designer or brand that is not active, but whose contribution in the fashion sector is valued.

The winners

In this first edition the designer Víctor von Schwarz with his Double Life collection, 2018 is the winner of the Merit Award in Fashion Design . His tendentious presentation highlights the precariousness of the sector and the difficulties faced by emerging designers, “the new generation” whose double life between creativity and reality usually lasts no more than 10 years. As a representation of this ‘Double Life’ the collection is divided into two parts: one purely in black and white with shapes that are inspired by office attire, the other more imaginative with glitter, voluminous shapes and pastel shades.

The Merit Award for Innovation in Fashion goes to Piñatex ® by Ananas Anam, a company that is developing a product in which commercial success is integrated and social, ecological and cultural development is promoted in parallel. Working from this perspective, Piñatex ® opts for a non-woven natural base material that consumers can use as a sustainable alternative. The material is made from pine leaf fibres, a product from the agricultural industry that does not require large amounts of land, water or pesticides to produce the raw material.

The Talent of the Year Award goes to Pepa Salazar, one of the most promising talents in Spanish fashion. Established in Madrid, this Valencian designer presented her first collection in 2013 for which she won the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Award Talent in the next edition. In the Autumn-Winter 18/19 collection, the designer presents a universe marked by the images of the absurd, fictitious and utopian, belonging to the mythology and paganism of primitive cultures. The jury considered that her latest creation is rich in colours and textures, has character and strength and an identity of its own recognisable in all of Pepa Salazar’s collections.

Finally Gori de Palma receives the Special Award from the Board of the New MODA-FAD. The essence of the designer is condensed into the industrial and the dense, all within a post-punk filter. Her signature is that of a refined and obscure author, with a perverse touch based on sub-cultural movements.

In the first edition of the awards tribute will also be paid to the figure of the Catalan dressmaker and businesswoman Carme Martí Riera (1872-1949), a professional with strong ideals who fought to dignify the profession of dressmaker, besides being the creator of the Martí System , the first technique of pattern making with a technical rigour that was celebrated world-wide.

Attendees of this annual celebration of Barcelona’s fashion talent will also be able to see the exhibition “The best design of the year”, where pieces by the winners of these awards will be on display. This sample in addition brings together 500 finalist works and winners of the different prizes awarded by the associations of the FAD in the various design disciplines.

As was expected, the new call of the prestigious research agency Nelly Rodi , to publicize the main international trends that will mark next summer was a success in capital letters. More than 70 people, most of them fashion and design students, filled the upper floor of the Gratacós space with their presence. All of them waited impatiently for the thesis and premises offered by the informative Úrsula Uria , in an instructive talk to disclose in an orientative way the colours and textures that will set the tone for the Spring- Summer 2019 season .

On this occasion, the head of Nelly Rodi in Spain unveiled four new trends within a social and global economic context that also influence her choice such as the revival of national values and patriotic folklore; young people’s need to enjoy through the consumption of experiences related to travel and not so much in the own ownership of products; or the rise of new musical icons that influence through their image with more identity power, to mention some examples.

Based on these general premises, four trends will influence fashion in the next summer season: Magnetic , Sassy , Life and Native 

1. MAGNETIC

A futuristic trend, with an androgynous and minimalist base, inspired by technological innovations and applications of them in the textile world.

Visual references : Artificial intelligence, virtual reality , Tokyo, science fiction, functional technology, holograms, the cosmos, Dries Van Noten or the kinetic designs of the British creative Es Devlin.

Silhouettes : Fluid and deconstructed silhouettes prevail, functional garments, large pockets in parkas and coats, fastenings with ropes and accessories on the zips.

Colours : Metallized such as gold and silver along with iridescent colours and blue denim. 

Fabrics : Fabrics that attract light. The pastel colours in neon version and iridescents in lamé. Also experimentation with technical fabrics out of the ordinary.

Public: A rational and active consumer, ultra connected to the latest technologies and a lover of aesthetic sports fashion in a chic key.

2. SASSY

An exuberant trend inspired by avant-garde movements such as Surrealism and Dadaism. An elegant and refined style that seeks to surprise and entertain through clothing and accessories.

Visual references : The works of Dalí and Miró, abstract art, Cristina Celestino for Fendi , the lipsticks for men by Tom Ford, Lladró, the interior designer Jaime Hayón , the lobsters, bumbags …

Silhouettes:  Fitted silhouettes with an 80s look and their characteristic volumes, review of the suit jacket and 60’s cut dresses. The accessories and the details have a cheeky point that plays with humour and irony.

Colours: The whole range of pastel colours. From the most decaffeinated to the highest tones in this line of dull.

Fabrics: The classic tailoring is renewed with new codes adapted to today.

Public: An individualistic consumer who is somewhat impulsive and in turn has a particular taste for fashion. He likes to be noticed with garments that attract attention, that transform concepts and turn more conventional codes.

3. LIFE

A minimalist trend that recovers a healthy lifestyle through moods and emotions. An evolution of the current “Horizon “ trend with differentiating tints.

References: Ecology, healthy lifestyle, veganism, noble materials such as wood, steel, botany, nature, works by Suzanne Anker, roots or designer Angela Luna, to name a few examples.

Silhouettes: Fluid patterns are worn and comfort is the main characteristic that is taken into account.

Colours: Green on green. White, vanilla and nude tones. The vegetal prints gain ground to the florals.

Fabrics: Natural fabrics , lightweight and handcrafted details.

Public: A purist consumer , lover of the slow life that treasures expensive clothes in the wardrobe, but more durable

4. NATIVE

A trend of folk spirit that the tribes have, the feeling of belonging and refers back to the origins. The boho -chic style in its wildest version.

References : Ethnic and cultural miscegenation, mysticism, roots, nomadic, desert landscapes, elements of nature, talismans, Xavier Noël’s artistic totems , trips to lost paradises, handicrafts, urban Aborigines …

Silhouettes : An intermingling of baggy patterns with tight-fitting garments in a style that combines the casual with the sexy. The Madras check pattern.

Colours: Earth tones, green camouflage, orange and blue combination, yellow tones, gradients … Tonalities found in the sky and the earth.

Fabrics : Rustic and handmade reminiscences. Crochet fabric and draped clothes.

Public: A more impulsive profile that fits in with an it girl or it boy. They look for singularity through an aesthetic that advocates the ancestral side.

Spring brings a new awakening of botanical motifs with original floral prints that pay homage to nature and its plants. Vivid tones, in various sizes, in surprising combinations … We review the prints that most inspire us in a season rich in colour and textures, with flowers as a common denomination.

French Countryside

We move to the interior of the French Provence in the middle of the rough fields of wild flowers: poppies, lavenders, sunflowers … that fill this country environment with colour. On the catwalk, flowers also sprout in their most mini version – the Liberty pattern is imposed – on all types of fabrics and in soft tones, providing delicacy and a certain nostalgia.  Long romantic- inspired dresses, asymmetric tops with Brigitte Bardot style ruffles and flowing skirts abound in the Chloé , Paul & Joe , Loewe and Marni spring-summer 2018 collections . A pattern that reflects the most bucolic beauty of nature.

Exotic Polynesia

At the other end of the first trend in floral prints, is the exoticism of Polynesia. Thus, the flora and fauna of these Pacific islands inspire the most daring summer prints with large format flowers that invade all types of garments, bringing colour, joy and vitality. A tropical spirit inspired by Hawaii or Taití with two main flowers: the hibiscus and the gardenia, wrapped in abundant vegetation. The chromatic palette focuses on warm and vibrant tones such as yellow, orange, fuchsia or vermilion.

Wild jungle

The flowers are still present, giving prominence to the fruits, the leaves of the palm trees, and the most diverse wild fauna in this type of very vivid print full of natural references to these exotic paradises full of foliage. The fabrics emulate a floral motif that intermingle with vegetation and animal prints. A tropical print that renews itself season after season and is present in the collections of Kenzo o Escada, for instance.

In Gratacós you will find several floral fabrics that follow these three seasonal trends amongst other inspirations. You will find them in our online store or in the physical space of Barcelona.

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Fashion is paying homage to the sweetness of the softest tones in the chromatic spectrum. Pastel colours are the kings of a season, which is tinged in pale tones that give it a certain romantic and boyish look, with mixtures that include light blues, water green, pale rose, baby blue, lavender and the palest of greys. The collections of Michael Kors, Tom Ford, Emporio Armani, Giambattista Valli, Victoria Beckham and even Chanel, have been impregnated with this colour palette that is presented in complementary blocks within the same look and that without any doubt express the freedom to experiment with colours, soft textures and gradually lightening fabrics. They are tones that when well combined, soften traits and favour tanned skin.

Let’s look at some of the colours most in fashion this Spring-Summer 2018 according to Pantone.

Lavender Pink

This pink shade with bluish reminiscences is taking over from the Millennial Pink that so much triumphed last season – and that continues to mark the spirit of a generation-. It is a lavender pink colour, very fine and delicate, that gives off calm and tranquility. Michael Kors, Kenzo or Tom Ford have opted for this tone in Spring.

Almost Mauve

Another seductive pink from the soft palette. Almost Mauve is a very soft, almost mauve shade, which seems almost white, an ephemeral and delicate colour like a rose petal that lends a very subtle tone to the chromatic creation. Some designs by Rachel Zoe, Giambatista Valli and Tom Ford go for this most nostalgic of hues.

Flowering Dahlia

Orange is present in its most subdued version: peach, a warm tone that intermingles with the pink and whose reference is the flowering dahlia. It is a discreet, but attractive colour that is also a hit in the make-up industry. Rachel Zoe and Paul Smith have opted for it wihout hesitation.

Little Boy Blue

Baby blue is back once again for the warmer months. This inspiring colour of the brightest of skies reminds us of innocence and purity, transmitting tranquility and comfort. This calm tone finds its best allies in lavenders and quiet greens. Versace and Ralph Lauren have featured it on the catwalks.

In our online website, as well as in the Gratacós shope you will also find the new selection of pastel fabrics, so that you can create your softest chromatic blocks. Choose fabrics without too many textures and dare to experiment.

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Maria Fontanellas is part of this new generation of designers who have managed to form their own brand and struggle every day to find their place in an industry that is avid for novelties, but also fierce. From a family of tanners from Igualada, one of the textile cribs of Catalonia, the young creator tries to promote Mietis abroad with a young team that helps her in the design, positioning and business tasks. In her debut at the 080 Barcelona Fashion show last year, Maria Fontanellas won the Emerging Talent Award. We discuss her upcoming projects…

Tell us what we are going to see in the new collection that you present at the 080 Barcelona Fashion…

The collection ‘Safari to Wonderland ‘ is inspired by the world of the jungle in which exotic animals with well-defined colours and textures will appear and I pay special attention to details. I was also inspired by the glam rock style of the 70s and these two ideas will be mixed together. This collection will be an evolution of the previous proposal.

And how do we visualize this safari glam on the catwalk?

To recreate the animals there will be feathers and specific patterns. You can also see patent materials, bright fabrics and a lot of colour because this proposal is about blocks of colour. I will also use the skin a lot because it is something that defines me and there will be elements from the world of the motor with biker jackets and jackets with military airs.

“The skin is the material that defines Mietis”

The skin as a material is also a symbol of Igualada, specifically the industrial district of Rec…

Yes, the skin connects with my brand and with my family. As a matter of fact the workshop of Mietis is located inside the tannery where my father has the factory.

How has the family business influenced you?

It has completely influenced me because my father beyond being a tanner and businessman also likes fashion. He encouraged me to pursue my dreams by launching a skin line and helped me create my own brand. On my part, I studied in Milan and just two years ago I graduated and I passed a pattern making and sewing course which was very useful for design.

Family support, visibility on the Catalan catwalk … It’s not a bad start!

Yes, in this case winning the prize of 080 has allowed me to launch my second collection and in my house I have part of the infrastructure of the tannery where I have the clothing and design workshop. The rest you have to do yourself and it consists of hours and hours of work.

“They have helped me, but the rest you have to do it yourself”

Even so, the beginnings must not have been easy…

They are difficult and you constantly need support from other external elements. Always look out and make contacts to avoid losing business opportunities. For example, the brand right now has a showroom in Paris wher the collections are on show to promote them in the different international markets.

What is the next challenge for Mietis?

The most immediate has been the launch of the website with a capsule collection of leather jackets and bags. Gradually, I will also be introducing the spring collection to see how it is responding amongst consumers. In parallel and with my team we are looking for new multi-brand distribution channels to make the brand bigger.

“In Gratacós there is always something new and interesting”

What role does Gratacós play in all this set up?

I have been coming to your shop since I was 17 years old and I made my first research work with your fabrics. I’ve also designed dresses and I’ve always come here since I’ve been in fashion. In Gratacós, I feel at home and I love the fabrics that you offer, especially the fancy ones. I rely a lot on the fabrics and then design the collections. I love your lace, brocade, Jacquards … There is always something new and interesting!

And how do you see the future of Mietis? Do you rule out working for others? I do not rule out collaborating or nurturing other brands, but today I am focused on what is mine and I am very excited to move forward.

The Gratacós questionnaire…

Your indispensable garment … A leather jacket

A fetish fabric … Organza

A colour you never give up … Bright colors

A designer you admire… Raf Simons

An infallible style rule… Always put some colour in your life

A space that inspires you… The Marchesi cafeteria in Milán

A word of advice for the designers starting out… Learn also how to sew

Your ‘leit motiv’… Put passion into your work

As usual since 2000, Pantone has unveiled the colour that will prevail next year and will directly influence areas such as fashion, design or decoration. Thus, 2018 will be dyed Ultra Violet.  An intense, genuine and revolutionary purple tone that, we have seen for instance in one of the most iconic costumes worn by the deceased Prince or the colour that flooded his house after the news of his death.

According to the authority of colour, this tone “evokes a style of counterculture, the grip of originality, ingenuity, visionary thinking that leads us into the future,” according to Laurie Pressman, Pantone’s vice president. A choice that corresponds to a longing that the world needs: “We live in complex times. We see the fear of going forward and how people are reacting to that fear. “ The colour, Pressman adds, “is one of the most complex because it takes two shadows that seem diametrically opposed, like blue and red, and joins them together to create something new.” The ultra violet leans more to blue than to violet, “which speaks of the spiritual quality of the conscience”.

How will it be worn?

Ultra Violet is a cold and vibrant color that adds a certain mysticism. This unique combination of red and blue is easier to match than you might think initially. In fashion, for example, it can be combined with gold and silver among other metallic tones to give it that luxurious and dazzling look. In contrast, mixed with greens or greys, it “evokes natural elegance,” according to Pantone.

Brands such as Raf Simons, Ralph Lauren or Hugo Boss have already uploaded it on the catwalk in Autumn looks. The purple fever continues also in Spring. This has been portayed in the Moschino designs presented at the Milan Fashion Week last September.

More symbologies

As we pointed out at the beginning, this colour is closely linked to creativity and is related in areas such as music. Artists like David Bowie, Jimi Hendrix, Prince or Katy Perry have worn it on more than one occasion. Even Richard Wagner surrounded himself with Ultra Violet when he composed. This tone was also used by the British suffrage movement of the early twentieth century and in turn, was one of the colours most used by Andy Warhol. Finally, this deep violet is also linked to the cosmos and the tonalities of the universe, a trend that we have seen as in recent years that also influences the fashion industry.

Find some more inspirations with our Ultra Violet fabrics and unleash your imagination with this ingenious and mystical tonality.

Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.