Aya Jones by Txema Yeste for Harper’s Bazaar US. September 2019

We start the new year by immersing ourselves in the coldest month of the calendar, when winter displays all its splendor. On this inspiring journey, we explore the dazzling glacial landscapes: the snowy roofs of our planet, the vast inhospitable expanses covered in a blanket of snow and ice, and the overwhelming poles, where sky and earth are barely distinguishable, and the spectrum of whites take over a homogeneous colour palette, where each small chromatic nuance is widely perceptible.

This frozen nature, with a rugged and wild character, where life struggles to make its way, is also loaded with beauty. In addition, it has recently gained notoriety thanks to film hits such as ‘The Snow Society’ by JA Bayona, which leads the Goya nominations, and series such as ‘Fargo’, which have once again brought Minnesota’s impressive landscapes to the fore. and North Dakota, making them perfect settings for criminal plots in each season.

Beyond a seasonal trend

Fashion has fallen in love with the appeal of icy universes, incorporating the influence of alpine clothing inspired by high mountain sports into its repertoire. This trend has been increasing in recent years, manifesting itself through après-ski collections that offer clothing and accessories both on and off the slopes. Initially promoted by the most prestigious brands in the sector, the strategy was later adopted by large fashion distributors, including Zara, which has launched its own ski collection.

Frozen landscapes have also served as a muse for numerous designers who find in these unknown, distant and mysterious environments, fresh sources of inspiration to structure their winter collections. A notable example is Zuhair Murad ‘s proposal in 2015, which transported the brand’s clients between snowy mountains, steep rocks and still unexplored corners. Murad, with his innate talent, managed to balance dreamy fabrics, inspired by the textures of snow, used in all his designs, and patterns with volumes that marked the waist. In 2021, Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent presented his spring-summer collection in the frigid landscape of an Icelandic glacier. The models paraded among black volcanic rocks, mysterious vapors and gray waters with outfits that challenged the bourgeois codes of Saint Laurent.

More recently, Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga, surprised the public at the presentation of his autumn-winter 2022/2023 collection by transporting them to a freezing snowstorm, surrounded by circular glass walls. The models, with languid steps and clothing reduced to improvised protection, paraded taciturnly in a frozen landscape marked by desolation. In this case, this icy setting served as Balenciaga’s artistic director to denounce the Ukrainian conflict.

Gratacós is also inspired by the icy serenity of the glaciers

Gratacós delves into the dazzling aesthetic of glaciers to explore icy beauty through captivating fabrics that capture the serenity and elegance of icy landscapes. We let ourselves be inspired by pieces that evoke the purity of ice and virgin snow, as well as by those that dazzle with sequins or subtle sparkles and iridescence. Silk, the undisputed protagonist, unfolds with an ethereal fall reminiscent of the slowness with which ice moves.

Glacier fashion embraces textures that tell stories of intense cold. How? Through layers and folds that suggest superimposed blocks of ice, while the relief details provide a three-dimensional dimension, recreating the complexity of glaciers. Embroidered with silver threads and translucent crystals imitate the shine of sunlight on snow, adding a touch of sophistication to each fabric. Other fabrics embroidered with tulle and rhinestones could emulate layers of frozen snow. As for the relief, we imagine pleated or other fabrics with soft undulations that imitate the topography of glaciers, providing organic movement to the garments.

The colour palette of glacier fashion is inspired by the soft, cold tones of glaciers. Pure white and ice blue dominate the spectrum, creating a feeling of calm and freshness. We added touches of silver and pearl gray that represent the shimmer of light on the icy surface, while deep turquoise pays homage to the hues found in ice cracks. These colours, masterfully combined, reflect the serenity and majesty of glacial landscapes.

Find among the seasonal items in our online store, that icy inspiration we talked about so appropriate for the winter season.

General concept

Technology and ecology. Are they two antagonistic concepts? Can they go hand in hand? At Gratacós we think so. Innovation and the latest technologies at the service of the new green economy, one that is at the service of sustainability in all its dimensions. A global strategy that affects companies in any sector and on which we at Gratacós have been working for many years in multiple ways, such as energy saving or the commitment to recycled packaging that complies with European regulations. Even so, it is in this Autumn-Winter 2019/2020 collection that the move towards sustainability is also affecting production processes, with the introduction of sustainable fabrics in our traditional seasonal catalogue.

 In the era of fake news and information excess (which ironically generates more misinformation) we want to be more honest than ever. We have started on a path of transition towards sustainability, choosing recycled and regenerated fibres to produce sustainable fabrics that minimize the impact on the environment. In this collection we have introduced some rather anecdotal articles because we consider that it has been an experiment which seeks to mature processes. The idea is that through the ingenuity and creativity of the design department we will take new steps in future collections, but in advance we will supply you with abundant items made from recycled and regenerated raw materials. That is why we consider this to be the collection of change. From the beginning to this move towards greener technology and ecology which creates synergies for a more sustainable world.

That said, the proposal ‘ Technology vs Ecology ‘ was inspired in its day in a context of mutation and change that specifically affects the design department. It was not an easy collection to conceive because the global economic context was valued to create more contained (but no less creative )products for greater acceptance in a market that is unstable and low risk for a season that is born with a great difficulty in generating concepts. Even so, the collection was conceived from three points of view: a certain austerity with articles that cover the classics using new contemporary languages; a transeasonal vocation for an intelligent and flexible wardrobe with items that work during this interim period; finally, a line of items for special occasions with reflections and glitter that enrich the fabrics: beautiful jacquards, fancy threads, winter flowers, tartans, prints in vintage velvet … An evening creation interpreted freely and with some extravagance.

Fabrics

Given this sobriety and classicism, this collection has used noble materials for austere, serene and strident-free fabrics. Robust fabrics only in appearance with elaborate textures of strange touch where the glows merge with the matt. Velvets and silks become denser, but maintain lightness and softness to the touch to preserve a theatrical point without falling into excess. Tactile weaving designs and dark-coloured fabrics that play with well-studied points of light with dimmed brightness, but more rational than ever, have also been taken into account. Controlled light. 

The Autumn-Winter 2019/2020 collection is also a collection rich in fabrics that mimic the fake fur or skin of animals with a clear cruelty-free spirit . Finally we have taken into account the fabrics that mimic manual techniques such as tie-dye , watercolours … It is obvious that they are manufactured via an industrial and digital process, but we try to make the final result seem handmade.

Designs

 The designs also connect with nature from different angles: from floral elements, through spots and reliefs that mimic some minerals to prints that are reminiscent of of animal skins. The collection also includes the most basic linear graphics, pictorial motifs and a new reconfiguration of stripes and squares.

 In fact, in general it is an eclectic proposal that mixes several codes, maintaining a basic tune: skin, manual-looking flowers, dimmed glosses, retro motifs inspired by the upholstery of the home, digitally printed tartans, surprising textures, night volumes …

Colours

 In chromatic matters there is talk of a dense but surprising collection where dark colours abound with small, carefully-worked glints that break with any monotony. A kind of poetic darkness. Black is a constant colour that articulates the winter creation. These muted winter tones refer to the beauty of imperishable classics. Sensual and elegant colours where textures and volumes become more evident.

 Beyond the dark range there are other more cheerful tones such as some brush-strokes of winter blue, bright reds, caramelised bricks, cold turquoises with mustards, seductive greens (now paler compared to other seasons) and a palette of pinks in soft shades. There are also orange and strawberry nuances that seek harmony and contrast with the rest of the colours in the collection. All this colour flirts with the metallic shades, especially matt gold.

 At Gratacós we hope you like this new feature and we invite you to come and see it in our store in Barcelona.