Tejidos bordados

Jueves 02 agosto 2018

You see and you don’t see

Although we have an eye on the 2020 collections – we are working on those fabrics likely to be in fashion in the next couple of years – we want to send off the current collection by focusing our attention on  the freshest and lightest fabrics that to a lesser or greater extent always have a certain presence in what is on offer for summer.  We’re talking about perforated fabrics that can be presented in various ways as sensual cotton embroidery, with a die-cut effect, in the form of net or laser-cut, which allows just a glimpse of skin.  Hinting, but not revealing.

From our analysis of the catwalks we give some examples of these fabrics and notice a chromatic tendency that is practically timeless because it is no longer subject to any season: the black-white binomial.

Cotton embroidery

Cotton embroidery  is associated  especially with the boho -chic style through oversized garments with maxi volumes. As an example , the designer Isabel Marant has used these fabrics in puffed blouses  accompanied by skirts and shorts.

For her part this same fabric also forms part of a dream-like creation from Simone Rocha, through whose designs women can be both naughty and innocent at the same time. Here we focus on her wide cotton dresses, some with stamped fabrics which give them this quality of apparent naïvity. The preferred colour for the die-cut continues to be a pristine white.

Net effect

If before we focused on a more romantic and evocative proposal, net fabrics are at the other extreme in that they highlight the more urbane and contemporary side of women. Woven fabrics are living a moment of splendour by abandoning intimate fashion and conquering new feminine garments such as skirts, dresses and sports-inspired tops.  Net effects are combined with each other or superimposed, leaving in their wake a sensual play of transparencies.

From net fabrics we highlight two novelties that have surprised us this season : that of opting almost entirely for the colour black – rejecting all those colourist fantasies – and the application of this fabric to all kinds of complements and accessories.  Proof of this are the summer collections by Emporio Armani and Dior.

Perforated

Finally we are highlighting those perforated fabrics where small circles reveal glimpses of the skin and laser cuts on leather or other light, transpirable fabrics. These create unique floral or fantasy prints that emulate the tattoo effect on the skin. In this case we are highlighting the looks of Salvatore Ferragamo, which go beyond mere white to include more daring pastel tones.