A new initiative has been launched for the design sector in Cataluña which aims to interchange synergies through didactical meetings. It’s called Designers Fashion Experiences and consists of monthly meetings between designers, professionals and renowned celebrities of the sector both on a national and international level. It is an opportunity for fashion students to learn the business from different perspectives and enhance their professional career. An incentive for the students to pursue their careers with advice and new points of view through the voice of experience from those who have succeeded in the fashion industry.

In the 4th trimester of 2016, there will be 6 presentations carried out by the following designers: Dolores Cortés in swimwear, Llamazares y de Delgado, Miquel Suay, Jordi Dalmau in bridal fashion, Oscarleon and Txell Miras. The conferences will take place in Casa Gracia, situated in Passeig de Gràcia, 116. This multiplural space symbolizes a world of travels, comparable to the path the designers have to take to get to know the fashion world. Creativity, colour, composition, innovation and hidden textures amongst different cultures and destinations.

This space is ideal to transmit the experiences of the designers, explaining the details of the smallest and greatest moments, and sharing their experiences with the students who in the future will become fashion creators, nourishing a new generation of this creative industry.

Gratacós supports Designers Fashion Experiences. As a family business dedicated to textile and linked to established creators and new talents, every year we promote new initiatives associated with training and development of fashion students.

The first conference will take place the upcoming 28th September 15, 2016 and will last until December. The aim is to repeat the experience a second time round in 2017.

September is the month of Fashion with new editions of the most prestigious fashion catwalks worldwide. After New York, the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid takes place in the Spanish capital. This upmost important event with the “made in Spain” design, takes place from the 15th to the 20th September in the exhibition hall 14.1 of the IFEMA Madrid trade fair.

The show brings together 41 Spanish creators (and 1 international designer from Kiev) who will present their Spring-Summer 2017 collections in an innovative way. The novelties include the incorporation of the creator Leandro Cano and also Malne, a brand created by Juanjo Mánez and Paloma Álvarez of unique and elegant garments. These conclude the catwalk shows of established designers in this edition.

Gratacós would like to highlight the participation of Catalan designers who confide in the family business. For example Andrés Sardá or Teresa Helbig and also other Spanish creators that receive their support such as Ángel Schlesser, Roberto Torreta, Juan Vidal, Amaya Arzuaga or The 2nd Skin Co, amongst others.

As is the custom, the last day of the catwalk show is dedicated to emerging design with a new edition of Samsung EGO. Furthermore, 15 young creators will present their designs in the Cibelesespacio Samsung Ego Showroom, with direct sales to the public during the days of the event. In this category, Gratacós would like to mention two young designers with a promising career:

1. Xevi Fernández

This designer from Empordà, studied in Barcelona in the Institut Català de la Moda. During his training, he won various competitions including ‘Young Talent Prize Bread & Butter’ 2009 in Berlín. His first collection “Nuclear” was awarded the prize of Best Masculine Collection by Creamoda in Bilbao. Xevi Fernández carried out his first work together with the designer Josep Font and this is where his interest began in the handicraft aspect of Haute Couture. The young designer has already participated in the Madrid catwalk show with his latest collection “The Last Future”, a collection with futuristic airs that reflects upon technology and society.

2. Juan Carlos Pajares

This 23 year old designer from Guadalajara is one of the fashion entrepreneurs with most influence. He studied in Saint Martins school in London and debuted last year in the Samsung Ego catwalk show with his collection Form Follow Function’ that did not leave anyone indifferent. So much so that some Spanish celebrities such as Nieves Álvarez, Berta Vázquez or Dafne Fernández have already been seen wearing some of his outfits at different events.

How do we captivate the soul of an interior designer? In a concept store that reflects its spirit, style and personality. Ultimately, his essence.

Chilean born Jaime Beriestain has achieved it in a shop and a café that have consolidated themselves as emblems in Barcelona. Two warm cosmopolitan spaces that transmit their personal signature. Art, music, interior design, cuisine, flowers, books and aromas come together on these premises. Here, the renowned interior designer shares his passions with his visitors; anecdotes from his trips, conversations about art and music or simply the pleasure of having a drink together. Not for nothing he considers it like his own home. “Here I have on display everything that I would like to have in my own home, but don’t have space. I love welcoming people and everything that it involves: thinking of the menu, going to the market, preparing the table, choosing the tableware, the flowers, the music” assures Beriestain.

Since opening in 2013, Beriestain´s emblematic shop has become a mandatory visit in the City. This 500m2 multipurpose space is becoming increasingly popular and combines a café-restaurant, a cocktail bar, a concept store and a florist.

The Concept Store dedicated to home design encapsulates Jaime Beriestains’ electic tastes. There, we can find furniture and vintage objects together with other more contemporary ones under one harmonious and aesthetical space. There are also handmade objects, especially crockery and collections designed by him himself in rugs, cushions, stationery, document holders and bamboo furniture. “Each concept store shows the spirit of its creator. Mine is the extension of my wishes, everything that I like and that excites me” he explains.

In this multi space, we can also find the interior designers’ Café and Showroom that is located in a sophisticated surrounding that oozes culture. Works of art from his private collection hang on the wall and photographs of his favourite artists such as Peter Halley, Jason Martin or Biosco Sodi, amongst others. Being the good host and gourmet that he is, Berestain also offers his diners traditional cuisines specials, profound tastes that combine with first quality wines and beers. For those who love something sweet, Beriestain also includes an extensive menu of homemade desserts such as chocolate Spheres, the Jaime cake or his famous Cookies.

In short, Jaime Beriestain has come up with a versatile made to measure space, a second home to share his tastes with all the people of Barcelona and make them feel like they are at home. Gratacós completely recommends this place both for its aesthetics and ethics. Have you not visited it yet?

Striped fabrics are one of the trends this season in their most colourful and eyecatching version regardless of the thickness of the stripes and the tones used. Creativity above all.

The Spring-Summer 2016 Brain & Beast collection presented last year at the 080 Barcelona Fashion maintains the spirit of the Barcelona born brand created by Ángel Vilda. Peculiar guessing games with styles inspired in contemporary culture. Amongst the multitude of looks that are included in the ‘Decalogue, part X Insomia’ collection, the mikado striped skirts stand out by adding a theatrical tone to the already dramatic outfits. On the catwalk, it is known that the show is priority, more than the attention to design details.

These original skirts come in various forms: poppy, pencil or asymmetric cut and are elaborated with Gratacós fabrics. Plain mikados cut in multicolour strips to create this graphic print.

Actually, Brain&Beast is one of our regular customers and year after year renews their trust in us.

Gratacós has different coloured mikados to create new combinations, as explosive as your imagination will permit. You can find them here.

Now we are midway through summer, it is time to be seduced by one of the most flattering -and risky-colours of the season: yellow. In all its differents tones: pastel yellow, mustard, fluor or Buttercup, it is of the bestselling cromatics of 2016 according to Pantone.

The warmest of all tones is here to invade all types of summer garments and flatter sunkissed skin. From the most functional accesories such as bags and shoes to the most sophisticated of dresses as sought out on the catwalk of Giambattista Valli, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino or Tod’s. Even beauty products have succombed to the appeal of yellow. There is an array of eyeshadows in irridescent colours and nail polish in acid yellows.

You can add a touch of yellow to other colours in the form of accessories such as belts, necklaces or charms on bags. For the daring ones, you can go for swimwear in this colour to flatter your tan or go for a total yellow look on a hot summer night.

In terms of fabrics, aswell as plain fabrics, floral prints are also in and can add a touch of romanticism to an outfit. Also, printed jacquards or fancy fabrics with shiny details such as sequins. This season, yellow teams up with creamy tones to create a soft contrast that still allows it to stand out as one of the most lively and energetic colours of the cromatic palette.

Find the fabrics that follow this trend here..

Pedro Covelo is part of this new generation of male designers that know and recognize the needs of the current man; those that look for design, comfort and renovation with contemporary ideas that are a little daring but do not lose their functionality.

The young designer was born in Vigo and during his childhood he took various music, theatre and dance lessons. In the end, Pedro Covelo chose fashion design and moved to Barcelona to study in FD MODA- LCI Barcelona. “It was something more arbitrary that came into my life and I used it as a form of expression” assured the Galicia born creator.

2014 represents the beginning of his career when he won the MODAFAD prize to Best Young Designer in Barcelona following his final degree project. If this was not enough, that very same year they gave him a similar prize in Galicia and he was finalist in the MMOD competition in Murcia.

Despite being so young, Pedro Covelo has already participated at 080 Barcelona Fashion and Mercedes-Benz FashionWeek Madrid. He seduced everybody with his third collection “Un sapo llamado Mike” (a frog called Mike) inspired in the North American Westerns, an interesting proposal of rich fabrics and well defined cuts. “I define myself for doing something sincere and very my own” explained Pedro regarding his way of working. “I like classic tailoring by pattern, I go for innovation in fabrics, prints and embroidery. For me, it is very important to favour handicraft work.”

A juvenile collection that maintains the essence of the designer in a wild Western American surrounding. Silk shirts, ribbons at the neck, Bohemian style trousers and coats created with patchwork. All the garments use a surprising mix of fabrics and prints. Some of them are ours, for example the floral prints and the original orange crepe fabric that Pedro used to print the faces of the presidents of the United States. We are mutually thankful for his trust in us. “Gratacos is part of my family in fashion and has been a big support for me” said the young designer.

Pedro Covelo is settled in Barcelona and continues his work in the design world. The journey however is not always smooth. “It is not an easy job and when you are young more so because it is difficult to survive with the little help they give us” he explained. Despite the possible obstacles, Pedro calls for a steady hand to work in what he most enjoys, fashion creation. And the first steps have been taken.

Good luck!

This passing trend converted into a timeless classic a good few years ago now. Navy style knows no time boundaries, it is back again this season again in the form of striped tops, capri trousers, anchor prints, double button jackets and a mix of colours that go from blue, white and red.

The details: in metallized colours. Every season, sailor style reinvents itself on the catwalk. It is associated historically with brands such as Coco Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier who always render to the look of the high seas. This summer, Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana have surprised us with some navy looks with easily identified garments such as the striped Bretón shirt or the lady bags.

Where does the sailor style come from?

This look has something that charms people each season. It originates in the XIX century, in the midst of the Victorian era when the Royal Navy was formed in Great Britain. In the 30s it was decided that the workers of the navy would wear a uniform to distinguish them from the fishermen. Crossed jackets with metallic gold buttons for the naval officers and striped shirts for the sailors so they could be seen if they fell in the water. During a Royal visit, the very same Queen Victoria became infatuated by the uniforms, and shortly after this, it became the official uniform for the whole navy.

In the fashion world, it was Coco Chanel that introduced striped shirts into their daily styles, a garment that portays this coveted and immaterial french chic. Mademoiselle Gabrielle was fascinated by the typical sailor garments and decided to incorporate this print into the female wardrobe. Other celebrities have gone down in history wearing an inmortal striped shirt such as the actress Audeey Hepburn, the actor James Dean or the painter Pablo Picaso.

If you want to follow this style in your own way, Gratacós has a beautiful jacquard with fine blue lines so you can design your garments with a high seas look.

Roberto Torretta has been given an award at the “III Premios Nacionales de la Moda” (National Fashion Awards). These awards distinguish the fine work carried out by the creators and the industry in our country. The ceremony took place last month in the Traje museum in Madrid and was chaired by Queen Leticia.

The Argentinian designer received this award for his long life dedication to the fashion industry.

Roberto Torretta was born in Buenos Aires but moved to Spain in 1972 where he began to work in the fashion world as a member of the sales team in the company Trip Difusión in Madrid. That very same year, in Spains capital, he took part in the launch of an emblematic shop “Boutique Berlin”.

In 1981 he created the brand and company SNIF S.A. Two years later his first catwalk show took place in Madrid in the “Circulo de Bellas Artes” (Fine Arts Circle), an event organized by the magazine “Dunia”.

In his beginnings, Torretta specialized in cotton fabrics and produced various collections of sport clothes. Over the years, the collections evolved into more sophisticated designs with lusher fabrics.

The crucial year for Roberto Torretta came in 1996 when he debuted in the Cibeles catwalk show. It was not until 1998 however till he participated in the show individually with his own name. Following this, he opened shops in Madrid, Valencia and Seville.

Roberto Torretta has worked hard to maintain his place following the demands of the market. How? By diversifying the brand in new ideas beyond fashion. His fashion lines currently include; womens prêt-à-porter clothes that he presents each season in the Madrid show, an evening collection and another for bridal dresses. Furthermore, he has designed a collection of glasses for Federópticos, a collection of bath linen and bedding for Atrium, a coat and leather accessories collection for La Roca Village, a tableware collection for Arc, a jewellery collection for Le Cadóy and a precious stone jewellery collection for Navas.

This capacity he has for adaptation and reconversion has earned him a national award that endorse his experience and a long career contribuiting to the fashion industry.

Furthermore, Roberto Torretta confides in the quality of the Gratacós fabrics and various designs exhibited at his show in the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid were made using our fabrics.

All we can say more is, congratulations Roberto!

As we approach the end of the month of July, we can safely say we have completed all of our assignments and managed to tie up all important loose ends before we begin our long awaited holidays. It has been a busy couple of weeks both in Spain and abroad. In the shop, the summer sales continue with a great many discounts and fabrics that really are a bargain to invest in and design mid season garments. In August, we will maintain the window display by the interior designer Antonio Iglesias.

Abroad, Gratacós continues its task of presenting new collections for next season and strengthening business relations with international customers, as we have been doing since the year 2000. To achieve this, we have been present at three relevant fairs in Paris, Munich and New York. During these fairs we have exhibited the new fabric collection for next year: autumn-winter 2017/2018 and representatives from all over the world have valued our innovative proposals. Just to highlight that fancy jacquards and prints on eyecatching garments with graphic motifs are back.

Parallel to this, Gratacós continues its expansion into the European Union through wholesaling and widens its network of representatives, agents and distributors.

In summary, we have come to the end of a good season with high standards, but we must not lower our guard, the competition is always very fierce, but our compromise, quality and experience vouch for us.

He has been in the sector for more than two decades, but he maintains the same passion as the day he begun. Santos López is the designer for Santocostura. Fom his workshop in Barcelona, he directs an artisan bridal brand with made to measure garments using quality fabrics and unique embroidery. His collections know no trends or fads and maintain a sophisticated timelessness with perfectly cut silhouettes. The Santoscostura dresses have appeared in a number of magazines and have been centre of attention on the red carpet. Nevertheless Santos López knows that being in the spotlight is one thing, but to get to the top, one must work very hard.

You define yourself as an artisan, rather than a designer.…

The value of our brand comes down to making artisan dresses with unique details that can only be done by working with one garment at a time. I like to preserve the traditional way of working with my hands, because handicraft is something that is coming to an end in Alta Costura.

Why?

At University, they forget to teach the most essential part of a business and I am not referring to the designer, who I do not deny is the soul, but they do not show the work of those who sew. They do not show the students how to sew and this is a skill that is disappearing. There is a general belief that it is a devalued job that does not require training, but this is not the case and the truth is we are losing workforce. When the seamstresses no longer exist, Alta Costura will disappear because this art that can not be exported to China nor India.

Despite this, we are going back to our traditional ways, or at least we are more conscientious …

Here is the inconsistency. Consumers value handicraft and customisation, but we are missing artisans to carry out this type of work.

«Consumers value handicraft but we are missing artisans»

Did you inherit your passion for sewing?

Yes, but not in a professional way. I studied Fine Arts because there were no specific university degrees for fashion. I later did various pattern and garment making courses and I learnt by myself. I never doubted this was meant for me.

Do you have any childhood memories?

I remember when my grandmother and I sewed laces together.

What was the first thing you sewed?

A bridal dress for one of my sisters dolls. I think it was a Nancy doll.

What did you learn in your first job?

That you need to work hard. The catwalks and the attention from the media are secondary,. You concentrate on designing and producing. It takes a lot of hours and a lot of effort.

What appealed to you about the bridal sector?

When I was 12, I read a book on the history of fashion and I recall being fascinated by it, especially two pages that talked about brides. When I finally decided to launch the Brand, I wanted to do something very artisinal. In the bridal sector there is always a lot more margin for handicraft and on top of that you are offering a daydream.

«In bridal, aswell as offering handicraft, you are offering a daydream»

What creative process do you follow in Santos Costura?

We work in two different ways. Firstly, we decide on a leitmotif and as from there we work on the collection with previously used fabrics that we join together with other embroidery that we make ourselves. The structured way would be think of the idea, draw the design, the patterns and prototypes. Secondly, we talk to the customer and gather up her ideas and tastes and we modify the garment in the collection until it meets her expectations.

What is the Santos Costura bride looking for?

They are looking for exclusivity and something that reflects their personality. It is true that our collection has a specific style to it but we adapt to what the customer wants so that that the bride does not feel like she is wearing fancy dress. The dress has to be in line with her style.

…And more so in the bridal sector where more than dresses, it is emotions that are sold.

Exactly! That is what we sell. Our work process with the customer is always very close and even though it is my team that starts dealing with the customer, I am always present at some time. I like to meet the brides and attend to them personally. I also like to be there in the dress fitting because it is important that they feel comfortable and I check that nothing has been missed.

What are the trends for 2017?

In the last few years we have gone from vintage to boho-chic gypsy style. This has completely changed now. At least with the brides I deal with. Now we find ourselves with a much more sophisticated bride, that does not want such a big dress, that likes transparencies to insinuate but now to show, with much more elaborated details like gemstones on the dress. These brides want a long sleeved dress, a closed neck and a large opening at the back. There is also a tendency to go back to the basics with a closed plain crepe dress. In general, there is retraint in manners and a sophistication in the small details.

«In general, there is restraint in manners and a sophistication in the small details.»

What are you goals for next year?

The brand is growing alot and I am thinking of things that I did not contemplate when I launched the company. People ask me for dresses from all over the world and my goal is to maintain demand without missing the little details. It is true that in exterior sales points we cannot offer customisation of the dress. We are currently thinking of designing a small collection so that brides that live abroad can have a bit of scope to modify the dress.

The Gratacós questionnaire…

An essential garment…. Some stilettos

A fetiche fabric… Lace

A colour you could not live without… Black

A designer you admire… The maestro Balenciaga and Josep Font de Delpozo

An infallible style rule… Dont look like you’re wearing fancy dress, be true to yourself

Your favourite place in Barcelona… The port

A piece of advise for designers starting out… Be prepared to work hard and never lose your passion

Your vital slogan… Above all honesty