The catwalks of Madrid and Barcelona are leaving in their wake a hundred creations from the designers of the moment. From Gratacós we have seen some of our fabrics on the catwalk in the collections of Autumn-Winter 2017/2018. We highlight the most relevant looks:

Moisés Nieto’s New York party

Moisés Nieto broke away from the oficial calender of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid to turn to the Matador Club of Madrid into the Manhatten Area Club of the late 80’s in a nightlife full of glamour that pays homage to art. Here what the designer from Ubeda presents is inspired by the clubbing culture and the excess of endless nights with velvet and sequins in midi Dresses combined with Reeboks so as to keep on dancing. A further highlight were the black patchwork garments where devore, silk and guipure are mixed to stand out brilliantly from the crowd. A final stunning look was provided by some glamorous details such as feathers and garments with fringed silks.

The eighties luxury of The 2nd Skin Co.

Juan Carlos Fernández and Antonio Burillo are inspired by the 80’s for women’s everyday wear. The 2nd Skin Co. One innovation is that knitted garments are incorporated into the most sophisticated looks via high neck jumpers with geometric print and embossed shoulders that are combined with dresses and tops with embroidered sequins and velvet, which in this case understates any excessive glare. Standing out from the old collection is also a blazer-dress of black tweed, which is sleeveless and versioned with strapless neckline. This creation coexists with mini-dresses with asymmetrical neckline and large flowers on one shoulder, mini-skirts and shirt-dresses.

Hunting for Palomo Spain

Palomo Spain was tasked with closing the 67th edition of the Madrid catwalk with a collection exhibited a few weeks ago in Paris. His creation “The Hunting” was performed in the salons of the Teatro Real with male models representing the characteristic ambiguity of Alejandro Palomo’s designs. It was a Fashion show of Baroque aesthetics offering a melodramatic route through the history of the monarchy: iridescent frock coats, chain-mail tunics and medieval reminiscences, tweed jackets and richly ornamented fabrics in what was a majestically exquisite presentation.

The emotional collection by Escorpion

Escorpion presented at 080 Barcelona Fashion one of the few see now, buy now schemes (on-the-spot purchasing) in this edition. Thus the “Feel” collection corresponding to the next spring-sumnmer season by Sybille Horaist is inspired by the impulse to feel, to experiment and to touch. Their experimental presentation is divided into three lines: the first one of harder aesthetics with green camouflage, beige and black tones. The second plays geometric contrasts with zigzags, stripes and borders in various colours. Finally, in the latest looks, the flowers take over the garments with printed sweaters and flowing skirts with ruffles.

The glamorous safari of Mietis

Maria Fontanellas offers plenty of surprises with her collection “Safari in Wonderland”, a winter presentation which we already covered in our interview with her in January (catch it again here). She takes us on a trip to an imaginary jungle full of wonders, where the woman Mietis reflects through clothing her most eccentric and independent side. The presentation of adventurous and sophisicated aesthetics at the same time combines exterior pieces like jackets and long coats of military inspiration with glitter and metallic looks that accentuate the more glam-rock spirit of the collection. Also present are volumes, rounded shapes and the application of feathers that add a point of theatricality.

Palomo Spain has hit the heights and is heading for success. In two years the company of the Cordoba Designer Alejandro Gómez Palomo (Posadas, 1992) has passed from anonymity to be on everyone’s lipse. And the critics predict him a good future in the fickle fashion industry. He is not lacking in merit. The key to his success has been to revolutionize the masculine wardrobe with clothes that boast transgression, creativity and colour without limits: provocation as a flag. Palomo Spain dresses men in traditionally feminine articles of clothing creating a peculiar eighties universe with an Almodovan aesthetic. His creations are fresh and innovative, with garments that are equipped with all luxury of details and silhouettes that blur gender barriers.

The firm not only designs for men in its more feminine offerings. Palomo Spain takes a step further. Artists such as Miley Cyrus and Rossy de Palma have exhibited his creations on the red carpet. In fact, the fame of this designer grew exponentially when Beyonce chose a gown by the Spanish company for the public presentation of her twins last July. In November Rita Ora appeared in a bathrobe by Palomo Spain at the MTV Europe Music Awards.

After having gone through several fashion weeks, such as that of New York, Alejandro Palomo’s company was chosen to open Paris Male Fashion Week, one of the most important events in the sector, held in mid-January in the French capital.

The collection which he presented for next autumn-winter 2018 / 2019, is entitled ‘The Hunting’ and is inspired by the aesthetics of hunting, combining the more masculine English essence with the spirit of the South, much more folky and ornate, full of colour and prints that are distinctive features of the Cordoba brand. In the designs there is no shortage of furs, tweed, tartan, velvet or wool in classic cuts of the Montería, such as full skirts, corsets, capes and coats. It is an offering of green, persimmon, red and orange tones full of details, as are the line of accessories by Tolentino of Seville that accompanied the winter collection: traditional hats, felt forras… that give the finishing touch to the glamorous hunting looks.

In February, Alejandro Palomo will also have his spot on public television, participating in the new talent show by Spanish Television, Master Seamsters, a fashion programme that displays the art of the designer, emphasizing everything that is behind the fashion media spotlights. It is a contest in which the young designer will act as jury and mentor along with veteran designer Lorenzo Caprile and the Valencian María Escoté.

Gratacós support the talent of Palomo Spain and wish him many more successes.

Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.

Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.

After the valuable teaching imparted by Alejandro Resta and Núria Sarda, this month one of the big needles has come by the Gratacós space : Francis Montesinos. The popular Valencian designer took over the show in the third presentation organized by the initiative Designers Fashion Experiences for the second year running during the autumn months . With a casual language, some humour and a rich portfolio of anecdotes that review his extensive career in the sector, Montesinos knew how to win the love of the public (students and lovers of fashion in general) who did not hesitate to write down the advice and learn from the ins and outs of his professional career.

We review some of the questions from the interview as well as their answers. For even more detail you can read the information on the website Designers Fashion Experiences.

How does Francis Montesinos understand fashion?

Fashion is my way of life. I started when I was very young, when I was about 14 years old, I began to know it existed and I was already browsing to find out more about it. At 15, I started creating clothes. At that time I had a girlfriend and I made her clothes: I went to the fabric stores, I looked at the magazines … I discovered how things were done like a collar or sleeves. Without realizing it, I learned the first part of fashion, a part that is not real but wonderful.

Remind us of those beginnings after that first phase and, how was the sector in the 70s?

At that time there was nothing in Valencia and in 1974 I came to Barcelona. I have to add that everything I had learned did not help me at all. I remember that I started in the industrial area of ​​Barcelona and that’s where I set up my first workshop. I was very lucky because I lived a moment of change, of transition between haute couture and prêt porter -A- and I could count on the expertise of the pattern makers . In 1984, I went to Madrid, where the Madrid movement started, but in fact it was also made up of designers from all over Spain. Also to mention that I lived the hippie movement in Spain that also influenced my collections. That’s why I tell you that I’ve had the good fortune to experience two great changes in fashion and learn from them.

“The Madrid movement and hippie movement have influenced my designs”

What is the value and importance of the fabrics?

At that time I liked fabrics a lot, like I do today. I remember going to markets to touch the fabrics, to feel their shape and to imagine what I would do with them. It was as if the fabric was telling me what to do with it, not the other way around. That is why I always say the same thing: it is very important to touch a fabric, appreciate it and know what you will do with it. Personally, I like natural and organic fabrics like cottons, silks, wool … I think they are more authentic.

What values ​​would you like to transmit to the new generations?

Perseverance. I think you do not have to get tired of yourself, you have to learn to turn things around, to do new things without losing the signs of identity that is the most important thing in your career. In my case, prints with unique colors identify my work. In this profession you also have to be fast and patient at the same time and it is very difficult to achieve both simultaneously.

Francis Montesinos will have experienced some failure …

Yes. In the whole of my career I only decided to close once because of a mistake in the past in the registration of the brand that got me into debt financially and damaged my creativity, but then fortunately I saw that it was nonsense and I decided to fight. I promised myself that I would get back up, and I did.

“It is very important to touch a fabric, appreciate it and know what you will do with it”

What are the keys to success in each parade? It is the work of a team that is exposed in just a few minutes…

I am one of the few who do everything. I want to say that I do not let anyone put the music on, the lights, the outfits … Now I do not get as nervous as before because I have a team of young people who know how to do everything.

What is the importance of interpreting a design? The work of the designers and seamstresses …

I remember Mrs. Concha, who was the head of the workshop, she had the upmost patience to make me see how important her profession was because I gave more importance to design than to the production. From this I learned a valuable lesson: the day you find a pattern maker, treat her with love because they are worth gold.

How do you deal with the ego?

I have never thought about being famous. Never in my life. I have always thought that I like this profession and that I want to learn from it every day. I enjoy my profession and thats it.

What is your best design?

The best design I’ve done is the one I have not done yet because once I’ve made a design I do not like it anymore. I mean, once I created it, it has lost the mystery. I’m passionate about doing something new.

“I have never thought about being famous”

Who would you like to dress up?

I ‘ve already said it on previous occasions that I like to undress more than dress -he laughs-. I believe that there must be a communion between the brand and the client . If you do not like it, you will not wear the dress, that is obvious.

And finally, tell us about the business. How to survive?

The textile business has always been very problematic and the “rag” is what gives you the least money. There are other aspects that are more profitable, such as designing a pair of glasses, a mobile phone … You have to try to work your way up bit by bit.

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The agenda of fashion events linked to culture or heritage takes off in autumn. Now in November we recommend to you two plans where you will find the best design locally at more affordable prices. Don’ t miss them!

REC.0, new edition of the festival of pop up larger stores in Europe

All the arrangements are now ready for the district of Igualada Rec hosting a new edition the REC.0, retail experiment that has revolutionized this so emblematic city suburb through the radical sale of clothing and accessories from fashion brands and emerging designers at a local level within the old tanning factories. Not surprisingly, it has become the biggest festival of pop up stores in Europe with up to 100 brands installed in 50 temporary comercial áreas for only four days: from 8 to 11 November.

In this edition new brands are included that increase what this commercial and cultural event has to offer, such as Reebok, Quiksilver, DC, Boboli, Little Creative Factory, Sessùn or Furest. Also they confirm the presence of other small firms with local production as Bless the Mess, Nou Moscada,Maria Roch, Woody’s Barcelona or Colmillo de Morsa.

Indeed, one of the singularities that makes the REC.0 event unique is the convergence of large international firms with consolidated designers and local design. So in the same street of this industrial neighborhood the visitor can find the factories of the companies Levis, Adidas and Mango firms, with pop up stores from Catalan designers like Txell Miras, Miriam Ponsa or Josep Abril, companies with international presence here such as Antonio Miró, Punto Blanco or Castañer and small local firms that have an interesting story to tell. In this regard, the REC.0 is establishing six specific áreas for firms like Costalamel, Carlota Oms, SSIC and Paul, Pau Esteve, IKA Editions, Les Chausseurs, Dorotea, Loa, Rita Row or Kinetik Supply among others,who will provide what is a unique and differentiated offer.

We highlight the 080 Barcelona Fashion Award and REC.0 which the Catalan catwalk and the organization are encouraging to promote the presence of designers and emerging brands. This time the winning company Killing Weekend will provide the siting of a pop up store in the designers’ area during the four days of REC.0.
Finally it should be noted that apart from the fashion offer that continues to be the main axis of the REC.0, this temporary event is complemented by an extensive free cultural programme and offers a wide range of food for all audiences (and tastes).

Palo Alto Market brings together more than 100 emerging creative designers

The most emblematic market in the Poble Nou district of Barcelona is preparing a special edition focused on local design. On this occasion, Palo Alto Market will get together on 18 and 19 November some of the brands and designers with more than 100 emerging and independent creative talents, with which they share the same essence : crazy production, high quality fabrics, artisan spirit, traditional manufacturing techniques, sustainable processes and limited editions. The edition ‘High Design, Nice Price ‘opts for the philosophy # shopsmall, rediscovering and promoting local talent through an ethical, aesthetic and current consumption with exclusive designs from small producers, all designed and made in Barcelona.

Among participating fashion firms are companies such as Camper, Med Winds, Ika Editions, Miriam Ponsa, Josep Abril, Txell Miras or for contemporary jewelry Berta Sumpsi.

In addition, market– goers will also enjoy concerts by Paula Grande, the New Yorker Jonah Smith, the electronic pop duo North State or songs penned by Genís Pena.

Once the last edition of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWM) has ended, we like to look back at how our fabrics have staged some of the most iconic looks of the Spring-Summer collections 2018. For Gratacós it is very enriching to see how designers transform these raw materials into beautiful shapes that form part of their catalogue for next season. Sometimes these feature in original two piece outfits, baggy skirts with a suggestive drape or even, dresses with metallic sparkles.

These are some fabrics that we “spotted” in the 66th edition of the Madrid catwalk.

Isabel Nuñez, the sensuality of the Middle East

Isabel Nuñez is inspired by the Middle East to present a collection full of contrasts. Where there are traditions, but also innovation and super luxury. Antagonism of two worlds that the young Madrid born designer portrays with handcrafted garments full of shine together with other more minimalist lines and colors that evoke the desert. Our favourite is this draped dress with plunging neckline, very fluid used in the form of tunic elaborated with pearly foil. A silhouette that reminisces the sensuality and exoticism of the Arab princesses.

Juan Carlos Pajares, the most feminine sporty style

The winner of last year’s ‘Talent’ award for young talent surprises with a collection presented in a mechanic`s workshop in Madrid and bears no relation whatsoever with the Mercedes-Benz brand. The proposal of Juan Carlos Pajares inspired by the mechanics of modern life was full of sporty style female silhouettes with a chromatic range of bright colors like blue Klein or Barbie pink, aswell as orange, green and white. We fell in love with the looks made with our floral mikado.

Menchen Tomàs, multicolour fantasy

After her debut last year, Menchén Tomàs made a big impact on the Madrid catwalk with a risky proposition filled with amazing mixtures with different fabrics, colors and patterns that create a harmonious chaos. For example, fine striped patterns converge with flowers with patterns that are wrapped around the waist like a corset. Precisely this look that we show you in the image that captivated us. The printed poppy satin of the skirt with a side opening is part of our collection.

Moises Nieto and the Picasso muses

Gratacós also sneaked into the last parade of Moisés Nieto in a collection inspired by the muses who were part of Picasso’s love life. To understand this proposal, one must pay attention to the critical details and the unpredictable pattern of every look that function as a metaphor for the chaotic love life of the painter through a strong trapeze silhouette that evokes Picasso Cubist forms. The look that we show you is made with one of our fabrics with silver sequins.

Palomo Spain, masculine is also feminine

The young designer Alejandro Gomez Palomo of the Cordoba based firm is the architect of the “Palomo boys” whose fame transcends borders. Men who wear garments, fabrics and silhouettes linked up to now with women. In the XXI century, gender codes fuse and Palomo Spain has devised an ethic with aesthetics where men can be women regardless of their status. The Spring-Summer SS18 collection was presented at the Hotel Wellington in Madrid in a room where the models recreated characters within a plot linked to the world of music, cinema and musical theatre. Among the looks we loved this muslin with golden leaves.

One of the most interesting events of the year on the design front with regard to trend research and exploration of new talents, is returning. This is the FOD, Future of Design Days  to be held in Barcelona on 7th and 8th October at the Mazda Space area located in the Born district. It is an initiative driven by the platform Piscolabis Designers,which supports young Catalan talents , and  which has our support and collaboration.

What is the Future of Design? What challenges do independent designers face? Who are the most interesting independent designers in Catalonia? What does the FOD need from Catalan Design? These are some of the questions that will be addressed in this second edition. To this end, the conferences will have the presence of prestigious professionals, creative designers and experts in fashion marketing who will offer attendees a series of master classes  and informative workshops so that young designers have tools to help them differentiate the product and  have a vision of the future and develop strategies to boost or strengthen their business. Apart from access to knowledge it is about creating a space where communication flows in both directions through discussion and enhancing networking. The conferences include the participation of  Laura Cleries from Elisava Research ; Francesca Tur from Trends TV ;  Úrsula Uria  from Nelly Rody ;  Isabelita Virtual and Arrels & Hey Studio, among other professionals.

In addition to conferences and workshops, there will also be an exhibition of more than 300 unique products from a selection of 40 independent designers from Barcelona that will be on temporary display. On this occasion, the interior designer Luca Brucculeri has designed the layout of the exhibition together with Marcelo Vilá and Complás,  which has been in charge of the decorative elements.

Other activities to emphasize are a photographic exhibition which will feature the creative process of several designers, the screening of the winning fashion films presented in the first edition of the Fashion Film Festival of Barcelona, and the presentation of FOD Awards for the best design in fashion and accessories.

You will find all the  information  explained in detail on the website of FOD,  Future of Design Days. Run and get your tickets!

Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.