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Jueves 13 junio 2019

(Español) Cuaderno de Tendencias: Primavera-Verano 2020

As usual, in the Gratacós learning space we are always carrying out actions related to design and creativity. This time, it’s the turn of the prestigious research agency Nelly Rodi with the commencement of the new edition of her traditional “Trend Notebook”. An agile and didactic presentation that we organize twice a year, where design students and professionals of the sector meet to find out about the main trends that will mark the Spring- Summer 2020 season. Always from a context that directly affects the fashion industry, taking into account the global socioeconomic situation. The spokesperson of this instructive talk for many years is Úrsula Uría, Nelly Rodi’s spokesperson in Spain, and we can hear about more concrete trends that affect consumption, lifestyles, colours, silhouettes … and will set the guidelines for next summer. Always from an orientation point of view.  It is already know that this is a prediction is not always exact, but it helps to set some guidelines.

In this last initiative, Úrsula Uría places us within an economic context of waiting, where the world prepares to face a new economic crisis much tougher than the previous one. That is the key to understanding the Jump macro trend that will influence the four trends that are presented: “We need to gain momentum because what is coming is even worse than what we have experienced. We accumulate the crises that already evident within the political context, social movements or economic fragility, “she says.

Úrsula Uría: “”We need to gain momentum to face the crises that await us”

From this unencouraging scenario, Nelly Rodi Predicts four trends that will affect the fashion industry and that fall within the following categories: Holiness, Invincible, Vision Y Spotlight.

1. HOLINESS

A minimalist trend that appeals to the classics, to the ancient era, to the splendor of classical Greece and the Roman Empire. A review of mythology and the first cultures to look for new creative solutions. “In the classic we will find the only way to advance as a society by taking the best they have done and innovate,” explains Uría. Holiness is also inspired by Morocco and Egypt, in the deserts of North Africa.

Visual references : The Yves Saint Laurent museum , the book ‘ Homo Deu s’ by Yuval Noah Harari, the influencer of Italian yoga Aria Crescendo, the austere hotel of Adrere Amellal in Siwa , meditation, introspection and spirituality .

Silhouettes: The Oversize garments Oversize, fluid and flowing, false minimalism, easy and comfortable looks, fluffy and soft materials, natural fabrics: linen, suede, leather, bamboo … prioritizes organic and handmade details. It is a premium line that does not include prints. The sophistication that seeks comfort above all. The artisan plays in another league.

Colours : The palette of browns, beiges and off whites are the star of this trend. The tones that emulate the minerals with their shades and outlines. It is an evolution of all nudes. The second colour line refers to the terracotta and blue colours of Marrakech.

Silhouettes : Straight lines, well-marked lines and versatile and functional garments predominate.

Colours : They refer to the industrial and revolve around grey and blue. Black does not appear and ink tones give depth. The colour block in a single tone will also be in.

Key concepts : Modern pilgrim, ancient civilizations, ethical minimalism, introspection and origins.

2. INVENCIBLE

A maximalist tendency that refers to cultural revolutions, social movements, activism and a greater awareness of global issues such as nature and the environment. “This trend connects to being a fighter in a creative, non-aggressive way, ” says Uría . A style that also connects with the passion for extreme sports like extreme risk, adrenaline and survival.

Visual references : The pop up of Adidas in Seoul, the athlete Emily Sukiennik, the multi functional garments, fashion tech, the Survival Living room in Paris, the concept of explorer, the mutational skin of the reptiles, Comme des Garçons …

Silhouettes : Technical fabrics, reversible garments and clothing inspired by sport that is conceived as a new way of relating. The patterns are mixed together, there are no limits.

Colours : The first palette is called alert and is much more explosive with tones linked to plastics such as vibrant blue and bottle green. The second palette refers to all tribal and is linked to camouflage tones: false blacks and the tones that emulate lizards and snakes’ skin.

Key concepts : Protection, extreme sports, outdoor and role of winner and defeater.

3. VISION

A minimalist trend that appeals to youth, sustainability and technology. There is talk of utopias: “We talk about the desire to change the world using happy therapy, ” says Ursula Uría. In this positive current there is no ugliness or weirdness because beauty is considered to be everywhere, as long as it is not offensive.

Visual references : The unconventional models, the sustainable fair in Berlin, the collaborative project The Student Hotel, the latest ASOS campaign, the latest Delpozo campaigns , the Agatha Ruiz de la Prada look …

Silhouettes : Comfortable garments with contrasting colours that surprise: yellow with greens, greens with oranges, oranges with pinks … Also arty prints that emulate the aerosols from a fresh and youthful point of view, the Bardot necklines that connect with the new feminine sensuality . The prints play around, for example, stripes with pictures … always with one colour as a main theme. Plenty of Geometric répétitions too.

Colour : The first palette refers to baby tones in their most milky and decaffeinated version. The second appeals to a more sorbet range of colours with gelatinous textures.

Key concepts : Happy utopia, eco conscience, soft technological, positive future, contemporary romanticism and be a resolver.

4. SPOTLIGHT

A maximalist tendency that appeals to glamour and excess with a retro air. It refers to outdoor parties on terraces and pools in venues such as Las Vegas or Los Angeles. “The sexy, eccentric and daring woman inspired by the 50s returns,” adds Uría.

Visual references: Palm Spring, the Coco Chanel pop up  in Malaysia with vending beauty machines, nightclubs, exclusive parties, bling bling, art-deco, Charlie’s Angels, the beauty of sexiness, denim, the shimmer of the pools both day and night.

Silhouettes : Dresses, dungarees, long tunics, puffed sleeves, pronounced necklines … the most sophisticated garments in fabrics that radiate light like sequins or lames. Accessories are very important. Floral prints are also in, but with dark backgrounds

Colour: The first palette focuses on gold colour and its more aged tones. Also in the range of browns reminiscent of tobacco and leather. The second colour range appeals to violets, very dark reds and mauves that add that sophisticated touch

Key concepts: Extravagant glamour , hedonistic glam , pop power, tropical, positive attitude for your body and new empowerment.