Successful convening of the new edition of ‘ Cuaderno de Tendencias’, a biannual educational initiative, which brings together in the Gratacós shop dozens of students from various design schools to learn about the main global trends that will mark the Autumn-Winter season2019 / 2020. A relaxed and instructive talk will be given by Ursula Uría, spokesperson in Spain for the prestigious research agency Nelly Rodi, who will explain the colours and textures that will mark the patterns of next winter.
As general points of influence on the conception of the fashion collections of the AW19 / 20 season, Uría has highlighted a complex economic and social situation: “We are not talking about crisis, but about a break that affects many sectors and that entails radicalization.” The polarization of politics, the rise of migratory movements, social demands … are some of the phenomena that will continue to mark the fashion industry. “The collections that emerge will be more ground-breaking and alternative,” explains Nelly Rodi’s spokeswoman in Spain. Current names such as Palomo Spain and her feminization of men, the return of Agatha Ruiz de la Prada with her colourful essence or the singer Rosalía with her flamenco-inspired tour are some examples that, according to Uría, show this general tendency towards the alternative.
Úrsula Uría: “Fashion collections will be more ground-breaking and alternative”
From this scenario, Nelly Rodi draws four fashion trends that encompass the following categories: Master, Ride , Oddity Y Spirit .
1.MASTER
 |
 |
A minimalist trend that represents the return of tailoring and pattern-making from the point of view of rigour and perfectionism. Return of well-made garments, crafts, geometrical tracings and functionality.
Visual references : origami , geometry, mathematics, sculptures, straight lines, defined strokes, designer Issey Miyake , the last campaign of Dior man, Tilda Swinton for Gentle Monster or Arket’s featured colour therapy.
Silhouettes: Straight lines, well-marked lines and versatile, functional garments predominate.
Colours: A hark back to the industrial era, revolving around grey and blue. Black does not appear, whilst tinted shades give depth. Single shade colour block is also being worn.
Fabrics: Bright finishes, quilting and experimentation in technical fabrics.
Audience: Rational consumers who buy selective and expensive products, who know what they want and consume it consciously.
2. RIDE
A premium trend inspired by the world of racing (horses and cars) and speed. Appeals to the reinvention of the classics as already done by companies such as Burberry, Hermès or Loewe.
Visual references: the equestrian world, the concept of private club, sagas, Amazons, the prestige of the uniform and elegant authenticity of it girls (Carlota Casiraghi , Olivia Palermo, Marta Ortega) with families linked to the world of horses.
Silhouettes: Structured garments, geometry, biker jackets with reformulated silhouettes..
Colours: Brown shades and red Ferrari which add a touch of warmth.
Fabrics: A return of classic fabrics such as suede, leather, hair applications and plaid prints inspired by riders.
Audience: A consumer who knows the stories of the brands and gives value to family sagas. Consume products that have a history behind them, a well- marked savoir faire.and
3. ODDITY
 |
 |
A youthful tendency that is inspired by the poetic aspects of protest movements. The alternative is not aggressive, but its creativity is radical. It has a hippy quality.
Visual references : the cover of Vogue USA on the empowerment of women, social movements, communities, identity, grunge aesthetics, activism and collaboration, the concept of Princess Peter Pan, eco-activism, futurism and withered flowers.
Silhouettes: Overlays, experimentation of materials, layers, surprising openings … functional and very technological garments.
Colours: Grey latex, electric blue and sweet tones (pastel colours ).
Fabrics: Mohair, plastic, lúrex, experimentation with alternative fabrics.
Audience: A young public that seeks to make a statement via fashion. Fashion as a channel for the expression of a message.
