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jueves 17 mayo 2018

(Español) El escultor del cuerpo femenino

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jueves 10 mayo 2018

Cuaderno de Tendencias: summer 2019

As was expected, the new call of the prestigious research agency Nelly Rodi , to publicize the main international trends that will mark next summer was a success in capital letters. More than 70 people, most of them fashion and design students, filled the upper floor of the Gratacós space with their presence. All of them waited impatiently for the thesis and premises offered by the informative Úrsula Uria , in an instructive talk to disclose in an orientative way the colours and textures that will set the tone for the Spring- Summer 2019 season .

On this occasion, the head of Nelly Rodi in Spain unveiled four new trends within a social and global economic context that also influence her choice such as the revival of national values and patriotic folklore; young people’s need to enjoy through the consumption of experiences related to travel and not so much in the own ownership of products; or the rise of new musical icons that influence through their image with more identity power, to mention some examples.

Based on these general premises, four trends will influence fashion in the next summer season: Magnetic , Sassy , Life and Native 

  1. MAGNETIC

A futuristic trend, with an androgynous and minimalist base, inspired by technological innovations and applications of them in the textile world.

Visual references : Artificial intelligence, virtual reality , Tokyo, science fiction, functional technology, holograms, the cosmos, Dries Van Noten or the kinetic designs of the British creative Es Devlin.

Silhouettes : Fluid and deconstructed silhouettes prevail, functional garments, large pockets in parkas and coats, fastenings with ropes and accessories on the zips.

Colours : Metallized such as gold and silver along with iridescent colours and blue denim. 

Fabrics : Fabrics that attract light. The pastel colours in neon version and iridescents in lamé. Also experimentation with technical fabrics out of the ordinary.

Public: A rational and active consumer, ultra connected to the latest technologies and a lover of aesthetic sports fashion in a chic key.

2. SASSY

An exuberant trend inspired by avant-garde movements such as Surrealism and Dadaism. An elegant and refined style that seeks to surprise and entertain through clothing and accessories.

Visual references : The works of Dalí and Miró, abstract art, Cristina Celestino for Fendi , the lipsticks for men by Tom Ford, Lladró, the interior designer Jaime Hayón , the lobsters, bumbags …

Silhouettes:  Fitted silhouettes with an 80s look and their characteristic volumes, review of the suit jacket and 60’s cut dresses. The accessories and the details have a cheeky point that plays with humour and irony.

Colours: The whole range of pastel colours. From the most decaffeinated to the highest tones in this line of dull.

Fabrics: The classic tailoring is renewed with new codes adapted to today.

Public: An individualistic consumer who is somewhat impulsive and in turn has a particular taste for fashion. He likes to be noticed with garments that attract attention, that transform concepts and turn more conventional codes.

3. LIFE

A minimalist trend that recovers a healthy lifestyle through moods and emotions. An evolution of the current “Horizon  trend with differentiating tints.

References: Ecology, healthy lifestyle, veganism, noble materials such as wood, steel, botany, nature, works by Suzanne Anker, roots or designer Angela Luna, to name a few examples.

Silhouettes: Fluid patterns are worn and comfort is the main characteristic that is taken into account.

Colours: Green on green. White, vanilla and nude tones. The vegetal prints gain ground to the florals.

Fabrics: Natural fabrics , lightweight and handcrafted details.

Public: A purist consumer , lover of the slow life that treasures expensive clothes in the wardrobe, but more durable

4. NATIVE

A trend of folk spirit that the tribes have, the feeling of belonging and refers back to the origins. The boho -chic style in its wildest version.

References : Ethnic and cultural miscegenation, mysticism, roots, nomadic, desert landscapes, elements of nature, talismans, Xavier Noël’s artistic totems , trips to lost paradises, handicrafts, urban Aborigines …

Silhouettes : An intermingling of baggy patterns with tight-fitting garments in a style that combines the casual with the sexy. The Madras check pattern.

Colours: Earth tones, green camouflage, orange and blue combination, yellow tones, gradients … Tonalities found in the sky and the earth.

Fabrics : Rustic and handmade reminiscences. Crochet fabric and draped clothes.

Public: A more impulsive profile that fits in with an it girl or it boy. They look for singularity through an aesthetic that advocates the ancestral side.

jueves 26 abril 2018

(Español) Una joven promesa… José Bellón

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jueves 19 abril 2018

The green evocator Arcadia

Colour communicates and expresses moods. It is a key variable that designers take into account when presenting their collections.  There is nothing fortuitous. The more radiant the colour, the more expressive capacity it transmits.  And it is already known that in spring there is a desire to express oneself with colour, after a season of neutral, dark and muted tones, traditionally linked with winter.

Living with sorbet colors, another range of tonalities emerges that are positioned right at the other extreme.  They are bright colours, which radiate energy, optimism and confidence driving a new vitality towards fashion trends. In this more daring chromatic range you can find a colour inspired by the most fantastic natural landscapes:  Arcadia .

Make no mistake, green has never been an easy colour to wear.  On the catwalk it dazzles for its freshness and spontaneity, however it is not one of the habitual preferences in consumption.  There is a certain “curse” around this colour that only yellow equals.  Something different happens in decoration, where it is a habitual tone because it revitalizes the neutral spaces and enhances the natural textures and the rustic finishes.  It is a tone that is used in textiles, upholstery, auxiliary furniture and sometimes on a wall.

 Arcadia is a different green, highly recognizable visually and with a complex spirit. According to Pantone this tonality “implies the retro and at the same time the modern”. The international authority of colour assures us that “ it is a fresher and cleaner version of the green that, with its blue background nuance, takes us to a new direction for this season”.

This striking variation of turquoise is inspired by the crystalline waters of the tropical oceans and reminds us of purity, nature and fun. The colour Arcadia is above all casual, halfway between the evocative and the transgressive.  Obviously, there is no luxury company that has made an integral commitment to this shade, but it has appeared in fair measure in the collections of Tibi , Sportmax or Ulla Johnson in its most sporty version, in unstructured silhouettes and loose garments of synthetic fabrics . Or showing off its more sophisticated side through steamy, navy- inspired dresses like Elie Saab or through capes and accessories in leather seen in Valentino.

 It is usual to see this colour in Gucci , “the green dog” of fashion. In the next autumn-winter season 2018 there are Arcadia brushstrokes in eighties aesthetic dresses with volumes on the shoulders and a blazer with bright fabrics. What is more interesting is that Alessandro Michele  used it to contextualize his latest parade, which was more eccentric than usual, a symbol that in this case the creative director of the popular Italian company  wanted to use to highlight the youthful and imaginative side of his next collection.

Also discover in Gratacós the fabrics that are dyed in Arcadia or in most similar tones. You will surely give green a new opportunity.  It is well worthwhile….

jueves 12 abril 2018

The new generation of bridal design

April is the month traditionally associated with commitment: the new season of celebrations is officially launched; weddings, baptisms and holy communions. International bridal fairs mark this date on the sectors calendar at a commercial and design level. In fact, the Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week 2018, the main global bridal fashion event , is getting ready to situate the Catalan capital from the 23rd to the 29th April,  in the centre of the hurricane of all the trends and developments in the extensive wedding market.

From Gratacós we also do our bit. To begin with, this week we have opened a new window display that we hope will attract future brides. For one more edition, we have collaborated with IED Barcelona to visualize the talent of the new generation of bridal designers through the Postgraduate Course in Design of Bridal Dresses and Ceremony offered by the prestigious school. On this occasion, the window display includes the final projects of three students with a promising future.

Beyond the exhibition of the projects, we have also promoted a new edition of the “ Gratacós Barcelona Scolarship for the Talent “together with IED Barcelona. The winner of this edition is José Bellón who will receive an economic prize of 1,000€ that he will be able to invest in our fabrics so that he can elaborate the new bridal designs for the next season. The award ceremony will take place in Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week next Thursday 26th April , within the calendar of shows and parallel activities of the bridal catwalk. In fact, we recommend that you visit in the village the workshops that the students of the school will do live with our fabrics following the moulage technique.

Finally, we take the opportunity to remind you that we have available in our Barcelona shop the new collection of bridal fabrics corresponding to the season 2019. A well kept selection we have available for all to meet the demands of designers and customers who choose our fabrics to make their wedding outfits. We hope to see you there!

jueves 05 abril 2018

One flower for each garden

Spring brings a new awakening of botanical motifs with original floral prints that pay homage to nature and its plants. Vivid tones, in various sizes, in surprising combinations … We review the prints that most inspire us in a season rich in colour and textures, with flowers as a common denomination.

French Countryside

We move to the interior of the French Provence in the middle of the rough fields of wild flowers: poppies, lavenders, sunflowers … that fill this country environment with colour. On the catwalk, flowers also sprout in their most mini version – the Liberty pattern is imposed – on all types of fabrics and in soft tones, providing delicacy and a certain nostalgia.  Long romantic- inspired dresses, asymmetric tops with Brigitte Bardot style ruffles and flowing skirts abound in the Chloé , Paul & Joe , Loewe and Marni spring-summer 2018 collections . A pattern that reflects the most bucolic beauty of nature.

Exotic Polynesia

At the other end of the first trend in floral prints, is the exoticism of Polynesia. Thus, the flora and fauna of these Pacific islands inspire the most daring summer prints with large format flowers that invade all types of garments, bringing colour, joy and vitality. A tropical spirit inspired by Hawaii or Taití with two main flowers: the hibiscus and the gardenia, wrapped in abundant vegetation. The chromatic palette focuses on warm and vibrant tones such as yellow, orange, fuchsia or vermilion.

Wild jungle

The flowers are still present, giving prominence to the fruits, the leaves of the palm trees, and the most diverse wild fauna in this type of very vivid print full of natural references to these exotic paradises full of foliage. The fabrics emulate a floral motif that intermingle with vegetation and animal prints. A tropical print that renews itself season after season and is present in the collections of Kenzo o Escada, for instance.

In Gratacós you will find several floral fabrics that follow these three seasonal trends amongst other inspirations. You will find them in our online store or in the physical space of Barcelona.

martes 27 marzo 2018

(Español) París desvela la primera retrospectiva de Martin Margiela

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martes 20 marzo 2018

(Español) The Color Community: Mov

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jueves 15 marzo 2018

The legacy of Givenchy

Something hurts in the depths of the fashion industry when one of the great masters vanishes.It is as if the end of a prosperous cycle or a stage of great achievements is over to give rise to uncertainty.The nostalgia of thinking that any past time was better is a bad companion.

This week, the sector has lost one of its top representatives, Hubert de Givenchy.The French couturier died in his sleep on Saturday aged 91. Givenchy defined himself as “The eternal apprentice”, he left this world whilst dreaming.It’s funny how visionaries do not stop dreaming until their last breath.

A career between fabrics

Hubert de Givenchy was born on 21st February, 1927 in Beauvais in a Protestant family belonging to the French nobility. His father died when he was two years old and the designer was raised with his mother and grandfather who owned a tapestry factory in which he also collected fabrics, furniture and other typical objects of the time. As he recounted on multiple occasions, from very little he wanted to dedicate his life to the world of the fashion, but it was not a profession that was well seen at the time. In 1944 he left the family nucleus to move to Paris with the dream of being a seamstress. In the French capital he studied at the School of Fine Arts along with other dressmakers such as Robert Piguet or Elsa Shiaparelli. Shortly after arriving he opened his own workshop in Paris and did not hesitate, after a short time, to establish his own brand: the Maison Givenchy , which he began in 1952. Two years later he became the first designer to present a line of luxury ready-to-wear that catapulted him to success. It is also at that time, in 1953, when Givenchy met the teacher Cristóbal Balenciaga with whom he maintained a great friendship and always declared himself an absolute admirer. In fact, the French couturier became the promoter of the Balenciaga Museum, founded in 2011 as a sign of commitment for what he considered a source of inspiration.  From Balenciaga he inherited a way of doing and understanding haute couture as a symbol of timeless elegance.

After a long career, in 1988 the luxury group LVMH acquired the Maison Givenchy. The creator relegated his position as the firm’s great owner, although he continued to design collections for the brand. Other designers occupied the position of creative director such as Galliano or until recently, Riccardo Tisci .The same Givenchy retired in 1995 with a symbolic parade in Paris. Despite not being inside the circuit, Hubert de Givenchy never disconnected from the sector he loved until the end of his days: “I will stop making clothes, but will never stop discovering. Life is like a book: you have to know how to turn a page. “A great lesson in life from one of the twentieth century needle masters.

The dressmaker (and friend) of Audrey Hepburn

Givenchy dressed up key personalities of the 20th century, such as Jacqueline Kennedy, Wallis Simpson, Grace Kelly, or Carolina de Monaco. His favourite however was always Audrey Hepburn. In fact, beyond the professional, the actress was his muse and friend for years. The first encounter with the Belgian actress arose in 1953 at a key moment.  Then, Hubert de Givenchy agreed to lend her several models for the movie ‘Sabrina’ that would be released a year later.  That collaboration marked the beginning of all the collaborations that were ton come on and off the big screen.  The designer created for the actress iconic designs such as the black dress she wore in ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961); the creations portrayed by Fred Ataire in ‘Angel Face’ (1957) or the lace piece and black mask worn by Hepburn in ‘How to Steal a Million’ (1966). They had so much mutual trust and admiration, that Givenchy even had a book of sketches dedicated to Hepburn, entitled ‘To Audrey with love’. “I always respected Audrey’s taste. She was not like other movie stars because she liked simplicity, “said his muse’s couturier.

jueves 08 marzo 2018

The triumph of sorbet colours

Fashion is paying homage to the sweetness of the softest tones in the chromatic spectrum. Pastel colours are the kings of a season, which is tinged in pale tones that give it a certain romantic and boyish look, with mixtures that include light blues, water green, pale rose, baby blue, lavender and the palest of greys. The collections of Michael Kors, Tom Ford, Emporio Armani, Giambattista Valli, Victoria Beckham and even Chanel, have been impregnated with this colour palette that is presented in complementary blocks within the same look and that without any doubt express the freedom to experiment with colours, soft textures and gradually lightening fabrics. They are tones that when well combined, soften traits and favour tanned skin.

Let’s look at some of the colours most in fashion this Spring-Summer 2018 according to Pantone.

Lavender Pink

This pink shade with bluish reminiscences is taking over from the Millennial Pink that so much triumphed last season – and that continues to mark the spirit of a generation-. It is a lavender pink colour, very fine and delicate, that gives off calm and tranquility. Michael Kors, Kenzo or Tom Ford have opted for this tone in Spring.

Almost Mauve

Another seductive pink from the soft palette. Almost Mauve is a very soft, almost mauve shade, which seems almost white, an ephemeral and delicate colour like a rose petal that lends a very subtle tone to the chromatic creation. Some designs by Rachel Zoe, Giambatista Valli and Tom Ford go for this most nostalgic of hues.

Flowering Dahlia

Orange is present in its most subdued version: peach, a warm tone that intermingles with the pink and whose reference is the flowering dahlia. It is a discreet, but attractive colour that is also a hit in the make-up industry. Rachel Zoe and Paul Smith have opted for it wihout hesitation.

Little Boy Blue

Baby blue is back once again for the warmer months. This inspiring colour of the brightest of skies reminds us of innocence and purity, transmitting tranquility and comfort. This calm tone finds its best allies in lavenders and quiet greens. Versace and Ralph Lauren have featured it on the catwalks.

In our online website, as well as in the Gratacós shope you will also find the new selection of pastel fabrics, so that you can create your softest chromatic blocks. Choose fabrics without too many textures and dare to experiment.

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