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Thursday 25 August 2016

Radiant yellow

Now we are midway through summer, it is time to be seduced by one of the most flattering -and risky-colours of the season: yellow. In all its differents tones: pastel yellow, mustard, fluor or Buttercup, it is of the bestselling cromatics of 2016 according to Pantone.

The warmest of all tones is here to invade all types of summer garments and flatter sunkissed skin. From the most functional accesories such as bags and shoes to the most sophisticated of dresses as sought out on the catwalk of Giambattista Valli, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino or Tod’s. Even beauty products have succombed to the appeal of yellow. There is an array of eyeshadows in irridescent colours and nail polish in acid yellows.

You can add a touch of yellow to other colours in the form of accessories such as belts, necklaces or charms on bags. For the daring ones, you can go for swimwear in this colour to flatter your tan or go for a total yellow look on a hot summer night.

In terms of fabrics, aswell as plain fabrics, floral prints are also in and can add a touch of romanticism to an outfit. Also, printed jacquards or fancy fabrics with shiny details such as sequins. This season, yellow teams up with creamy tones to create a soft contrast that still allows it to stand out as one of the most lively and energetic colours of the cromatic palette.

Find the fabrics that follow this trend here..

amarillo radiante - gratacos

amarillo radiante - gratacos

amarillo radiante - gratacos

amarillo radiante - gratacos

amarillo radiante - gratacos

amarillo radiante - gratacos

Thursday 18 August 2016

The talent of Pedro Covelo

Pedro Covelo is part of this new generation of male designers that know and recognize the needs of the current man; those that look for design, comfort and renovation with contemporary ideas that are a little daring but do not lose their functionality.

The young designer was born in Vigo and during his childhood he took various music, theatre and dance lessons. In the end, Pedro Covelo chose fashion design and moved to Barcelona to study in FD MODA- LCI Barcelona. “It was something more arbitrary that came into my life and I used it as a form of expression” assured the Galicia born creator.

2014 represents the beginning of his career when he won the MODAFAD prize to Best Young Designer in Barcelona following his final degree project. If this was not enough, that very same year they gave him a similar prize in Galicia and he was finalist in the MMOD competition in Murcia.

Despite being so young, Pedro Covelo has already participated at 080 Barcelona Fashion and Mercedes-Benz FashionWeek Madrid. He seduced everybody with his third collection “Un sapo llamado Mike” (a frog called Mike) inspired in the North American Westerns, an interesting proposal of rich fabrics and well defined cuts. “I define myself for doing something sincere and very my own” explained Pedro regarding his way of working. “I like classic tailoring by pattern, I go for innovation in fabrics, prints and embroidery. For me, it is very important to favour handicraft work.”

A juvenile collection that maintains the essence of the designer in a wild Western American surrounding. Silk shirts, ribbons at the neck, Bohemian style trousers and coats created with patchwork. All the garments use a surprising mix of fabrics and prints. Some of them are ours, for example the floral prints and the original orange crepe fabric that Pedro used to print the faces of the presidents of the United States. We are mutually thankful for his trust in us. “Gratacos is part of my family in fashion and has been a big support for me” said the young designer.

Pedro Covelo is settled in Barcelona and continues his work in the design world. The journey however is not always smooth. “It is not an easy job and when you are young more so because it is difficult to survive with the little help they give us” he explained. Despite the possible obstacles, Pedro calls for a steady hand to work in what he most enjoys, fashion creation. And the first steps have been taken.

Good luck!

gratacos - pedro covelo

gratacos - pedro covelo

gratacos - pedro covelo

gratacos - pedro covelo

gratacos - pedro covelo

gratacos - pedro covelo

gratacos - pedro covelo

Thursday 11 August 2016

On the high seas

This passing trend converted into a timeless classic a good few years ago now. Navy style knows no time boundaries, it is back again this season again in the form of striped tops, capri trousers, anchor prints, double button jackets and a mix of colours that go from blue, white and red.

The details: in metallized colours. Every season, sailor style reinvents itself on the catwalk. It is associated historically with brands such as Coco Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier who always render to the look of the high seas. This summer, Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana have surprised us with some navy looks with easily identified garments such as the striped Bretón shirt or the lady bags.

Where does the sailor style come from?

This look has something that charms people each season. It originates in the XIX century, in the midst of the Victorian era when the Royal Navy was formed in Great Britain. In the 30s it was decided that the workers of the navy would wear a uniform to distinguish them from the fishermen. Crossed jackets with metallic gold buttons for the naval officers and striped shirts for the sailors so they could be seen if they fell in the water. During a Royal visit, the very same Queen Victoria became infatuated by the uniforms, and shortly after this, it became the official uniform for the whole navy.

In the fashion world, it was Coco Chanel that introduced striped shirts into their daily styles, a garment that portays this coveted and immaterial french chic. Mademoiselle Gabrielle was fascinated by the typical sailor garments and decided to incorporate this print into the female wardrobe. Other celebrities have gone down in history wearing an inmortal striped shirt such as the actress Audeey Hepburn, the actor James Dean or the painter Pablo Picaso.

If you want to follow this style in your own way, Gratacós has a beautiful jacquard with fine blue lines so you can design your garments with a high seas look.

ropa marinera - gratacos

ropa marinera - gratacos

ropa marinera - gratacos

ropa marinera - gratacos

ropa marinera - gratacos

ropa marinera - gratacos

Thursday 04 August 2016

An award for a career

Roberto Torretta has been given an award at the “III Premios Nacionales de la Moda” (National Fashion Awards). These awards distinguish the fine work carried out by the creators and the industry in our country. The ceremony took place last month in the Traje museum in Madrid and was chaired by Queen Leticia.

The Argentinian designer received this award for his long life dedication to the fashion industry.

Roberto Torretta was born in Buenos Aires but moved to Spain in 1972 where he began to work in the fashion world as a member of the sales team in the company Trip Difusión in Madrid. That very same year, in Spains capital, he took part in the launch of an emblematic shop “Boutique Berlin”.

In 1981 he created the brand and company SNIF S.A. Two years later his first catwalk show took place in Madrid in the “Circulo de Bellas Artes” (Fine Arts Circle), an event organized by the magazine “Dunia”.

In his beginnings, Torretta specialized in cotton fabrics and produced various collections of sport clothes. Over the years, the collections evolved into more sophisticated designs with lusher fabrics.

The crucial year for Roberto Torretta came in 1996 when he debuted in the Cibeles catwalk show. It was not until 1998 however till he participated in the show individually with his own name. Following this, he opened shops in Madrid, Valencia and Seville.

Roberto Torretta has worked hard to maintain his place following the demands of the market. How? By diversifying the brand in new ideas beyond fashion. His fashion lines currently include; womens prêt-à-porter clothes that he presents each season in the Madrid show, an evening collection and another for bridal dresses. Furthermore, he has designed a collection of glasses for Federópticos, a collection of bath linen and bedding for Atrium, a coat and leather accessories collection for La Roca Village, a tableware collection for Arc, a jewellery collection for Le Cadóy and a precious stone jewellery collection for Navas.

This capacity he has for adaptation and reconversion has earned him a national award that endorse his experience and a long career contribuiting to the fashion industry.

Furthermore, Roberto Torretta confides in the quality of the Gratacós fabrics and various designs exhibited at his show in the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid were made using our fabrics.

All we can say more is, congratulations Roberto!

gratacos - Roberto Torretta

gratacos - Roberto Torretta

gratacos - Roberto Torretta

gratacos - tejido Roberto Torretta 3

gratacos - tejido Roberto Torretta 2

gratacos - tejido Roberto Torretta 1

Thursday 28 July 2016

New opportunities on the horizon

As we approach the end of the month of July, we can safely say we have completed all of our assignments and managed to tie up all important loose ends before we begin our long awaited holidays. It has been a busy couple of weeks both in Spain and abroad. In the shop, the summer sales continue with a great many discounts and fabrics that really are a bargain to invest in and design mid season garments. In August, we will maintain the window display by the interior designer Antonio Iglesias.

Abroad, Gratacós continues its task of presenting new collections for next season and strengthening business relations with international customers, as we have been doing since the year 2000. To achieve this, we have been present at three relevant fairs in Paris, Munich and New York. During these fairs we have exhibited the new fabric collection for next year: autumn-winter 2017/2018 and representatives from all over the world have valued our innovative proposals. Just to highlight that fancy jacquards and prints on eyecatching garments with graphic motifs are back.

Parallel to this, Gratacós continues its expansion into the European Union through wholesaling and widens its network of representatives, agents and distributors.

In summary, we have come to the end of a good season with high standards, but we must not lower our guard, the competition is always very fierce, but our compromise, quality and experience vouch for us.

gratacos - feria de moda

gratacos - feria de moda

gratacos - feria de moda

gratacos - feria de moda

Tuesday 26 July 2016

One to one with… Santos Costura

gratacós - Santos Costura

He has been in the sector for more than two decades, but he maintains the same passion as the day he begun. Santos López is the designer for Santocostura. Fom his workshop in Barcelona, he directs an artisan bridal brand with made to measure garments using quality fabrics and unique embroidery. His collections know no trends or fads and maintain a sophisticated timelessness with perfectly cut silhouettes. The Santoscostura dresses have appeared in a number of magazines and have been centre of attention on the red carpet. Nevertheless Santos López knows that being in the spotlight is one thing, but to get to the top, one must work very hard.

You define yourself as an artisan, rather than a designer.…

The value of our brand comes down to making artisan dresses with unique details that can only be done by working with one garment at a time. I like to preserve the traditional way of working with my hands, because handicraft is something that is coming to an end in Alta Costura.

Why?

At University, they forget to teach the most essential part of a business and I am not referring to the designer, who I do not deny is the soul, but they do not show the work of those who sew. They do not show the students how to sew and this is a skill that is disappearing. There is a general belief that it is a devalued job that does not require training, but this is not the case and the truth is we are losing workforce. When the seamstresses no longer exist, Alta Costura will disappear because this art that can not be exported to China nor India.

Despite this, we are going back to our traditional ways, or at least we are more conscientious …

Here is the inconsistency. Consumers value handicraft and customisation, but we are missing artisans to carry out this type of work.

«Consumers value handicraft but we are missing artisans»

gratacos - Santo Costura

Did you inherit your passion for sewing?

Yes, but not in a professional way. I studied Fine Arts because there were no specific university degrees for fashion. I later did various pattern and garment making courses and I learnt by myself. I never doubted this was meant for me.

Do you have any childhood memories?

I remember when my grandmother and I sewed laces together.

What was the first thing you sewed?

A bridal dress for one of my sisters dolls. I think it was a Nancy doll.

What did you learn in your first job?

That you need to work hard. The catwalks and the attention from the media are secondary,. You concentrate on designing and producing. It takes a lot of hours and a lot of effort.

What appealed to you about the bridal sector?

When I was 12, I read a book on the history of fashion and I recall being fascinated by it, especially two pages that talked about brides. When I finally decided to launch the Brand, I wanted to do something very artisinal. In the bridal sector there is always a lot more margin for handicraft and on top of that you are offering a daydream.

«In bridal, aswell as offering handicraft, you are offering a daydream»

gratacos - Santos Costura

What creative process do you follow in Santos Costura?

We work in two different ways. Firstly, we decide on a leitmotif and as from there we work on the collection with previously used fabrics that we join together with other embroidery that we make ourselves. The structured way would be think of the idea, draw the design, the patterns and prototypes. Secondly, we talk to the customer and gather up her ideas and tastes and we modify the garment in the collection until it meets her expectations.

What is the Santos Costura bride looking for?

They are looking for exclusivity and something that reflects their personality. It is true that our collection has a specific style to it but we adapt to what the customer wants so that that the bride does not feel like she is wearing fancy dress. The dress has to be in line with her style.

…And more so in the bridal sector where more than dresses, it is emotions that are sold.

Exactly! That is what we sell. Our work process with the customer is always very close and even though it is my team that starts dealing with the customer, I am always present at some time. I like to meet the brides and attend to them personally. I also like to be there in the dress fitting because it is important that they feel comfortable and I check that nothing has been missed.

What are the trends for 2017?

In the last few years we have gone from vintage to boho-chic gypsy style. This has completely changed now. At least with the brides I deal with. Now we find ourselves with a much more sophisticated bride, that does not want such a big dress, that likes transparencies to insinuate but now to show, with much more elaborated details like gemstones on the dress. These brides want a long sleeved dress, a closed neck and a large opening at the back. There is also a tendency to go back to the basics with a closed plain crepe dress. In general, there is retraint in manners and a sophistication in the small details.

«In general, there is restraint in manners and a sophistication in the small details.»

gratacos - Santos Costura

What are you goals for next year?

The brand is growing alot and I am thinking of things that I did not contemplate when I launched the company. People ask me for dresses from all over the world and my goal is to maintain demand without missing the little details. It is true that in exterior sales points we cannot offer customisation of the dress. We are currently thinking of designing a small collection so that brides that live abroad can have a bit of scope to modify the dress.


The Gratacós questionnaire…

An essential garment…. Some stilettos

A fetiche fabric… Lace

A colour you could not live without… Black

A designer you admire… The maestro Balenciaga and Josep Font de Delpozo

An infallible style rule… Dont look like you’re wearing fancy dress, be true to yourself

Your favourite place in Barcelona… The port

A piece of advise for designers starting out… Be prepared to work hard and never lose your passion

Your vital slogan… Above all honesty

gratacos - Santos Costura

Thursday 21 July 2016

The trendiest webbing

Any style manual will tell you that it is always better to insinuate than to show. How? Through transparencies, strategical cuts, thin fabrics or net type fabrics, know as mesh fabrics.

This season, coinciding with the high summer temperaturas, net fabrics take over the catwalk. Garments and silhouettes that reveal the skin centimetre by centimetre with laborious interweaving that create a sensual geometric print. Mesh fabrics such as netting, fishnet or leotard are now no longer linked with the sports world and move towards luxury in their most sophisticated, delicate and feminine form.

Inspired in the fishermens nets, the large design brands have succombed to the charms of these fabrics, creating optical games all over the body. This is the case for example with Valentino, Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana or Stella McCartney. Mesh fabrics appear explicitly with large holes that are combined with areas of plain fabrics strategically placed to cover nudity in the most intimate areas. These fabrics can be found on bandeau style tops, mini skirts or shorts creating attractive overlapping.

Net fabrics also add a handmade effect to silhouettes when combined together with fringes or frayed effect fabrics that make the garment look incomplete. This style can be seen in some of Louis Vuitton or Acné Studios looks.

Gratacós remains faithful to its vocation to fashion and also has some fabrics with netting effect so you can follow this eyecatching trend. Do you dare?

tejido rejilla - gratacos

tejido rejilla - gratacos

tejido rejilla - gratacos

tejido rejilla - gratacos

gratacos - valentino

gratacos - Stella McCartney

gratacos - Louis Vuitton

gratacos - Dolce & Gabbana

gratacos - Balmain

Tuesday 19 July 2016

An ephemeral fashion and design space ‘made in BCN’

We love brands with their own style. Those that have originality with emerging or reknowned designers who dedicate all their passion to the needles to create garments that transmit their knowledge and personality within the sector.

For a few years now, a lot of these brands get together in one ephemeral space and exhibit together their latest seasonal offers in order to gain international recognition. It is known that unity is strength…This pop up store is called Barcelona Designers Collective and is sponsored by La Roca Village with the commisiary of FAD (“Fomento de las Arts y del Diseño”– Arts and Design Promotion). The aim of this store is to discover, promote and sustain emerging talent and entrepreneurial vocation.

This ephemeral shop situated in the La Roca Village, houses in one space 300 products of up to 62 catalan creators specialized in fashion, graphic design, illustration, product design, crafts and jewellery . With a casual modern air, these articles fits in very well with the luxury offered in this famous outlet.

In this third edition, participation included designers such as Less-Filling, PeBe, Congo Studio, Naguisa, Après Sky, Zazo&Brull, Georgina Vendrell, Mireia Playa, Romina Gris, Casa Atlántica, Sampere or Safura, amongst others. These were sponsored by well known professionals from various design and creative fields such as Benedetta Tagliabue, Biel Capllonch, Lázaro Rosa-Violán, the chefs Hermanos Torres, Claret Serrahima, Eugeni Quitllet, Miriam Ponsa and Marc Monzó.

All good things come to an end and this temporary shop will be open until the 16th August. It is a good opportunity to get to know the strength and creativity of emerging talent with fresh and summery proposals. We welcome the initiative!

gratacos - diseño ‘made in BCN’

gratacos - diseño ‘made in BCN’

gratacos - diseño ‘made in BCN’

gratacos - diseño ‘made in BCN’

gratacos - diseño ‘made in BCN’

gratacos - diseño ‘made in BCN’

gratacos - diseño ‘made in BCN’

Thursday 14 July 2016

Les Chausseurs, with a British accent

It awakes passions and drives crazy the professionals of the sector. Shoes are a lot more than a fashion obsession. They are the essential accessory to complete a look or more so, define one. In the busy quarter of Gràcia, renowned for its designer shops, there is a space that is leading the way with the originality of its creations.

With a French name, a Spanish origin and a British inspiration, Les Chausseurs is one of those brands whose shop bears the same name, and where one can find genuine works of art. Situated in the Martínez de la Rosa 67 street, it specializes in men and women’s footwear and reinterprets the classic English styles such as the Oxford shoes or the Chelsea boots. This project was launched in 2015 by the entrepreneur and designer Lambert Perera –renowned for also being the creator of the shoes and accessories brand Mus&Roew. Together with his partner María Reyes, they dedicate all their efforts in maintaining the business afloat, and so far it is booming. Thanks to their presence in specialized trade fairs, the network of international customers is continually growing and next year they are already planning to open a second shop and a corner in a shopping centre in Korea.

The footwear is designed in Barcelona and produced in Almansa. It is intended for the modern day dandy looking for the comfort of a good sole without forgoing style. City dwellers that wish to combine elegance with sport for every day wear and appreciate the value of exclusivity and beauty this handicraft bears. Aswell as the shoes, there are other accessories in Les Chausseurs that maintain the same line. For example the Bulgarian silk scarves by Shevitza, the Many Mornings unisex socks, jewellery made by the Madrid based brand Pena Jewels and the interior design pieces by the Basque brand Banoa.

In Gratacós we appreciate design, brands with their own name and charming businesses like this one by Lambert Perera who we have had the pleasure of seeing purchasing in our shop. Who knows…perhaps in the future we will see a new model elaborated with our fabrics!

gratacos - Les Chausseurs

gratacos - Les Chausseurs

gratacos - Les Chausseurs

Tuesday 12 July 2016

Forever, Bill Cunningham

The intersection of 57th Street and 5th Avenue in Manhattan provisionally has a new name “Bill Cunningham Corner” and pays tribute to the legendary photographer and fashion portraitist who died three weeks ago at 87. This is where Bill Cunningham used to position himself on top of his old bike with his Nikon camera on his particular hunt down of the most striking styles. Indigo blue blazers, beige trousers and an astuteness to spot fabrics, accessories and details on his targets. Whether every day passers by or famous celebrities such as Greta Garbo who he captured walking down the street without recognizing her. “I’m only interested in their outfit” he used to say. He later displayed his results in the The New Work Times in a photographic column for New York fashion that since 1978 became one of the most sought after sections for the readers.

In fact, the mission of this legendary visual chronicler was to identify each week the fashion trends in the city. His portraits reflected the extravagant characters he came across, just as long as they were in line with that aura of style he looked for. The director of Vogue, Anne Wintour, suggested “we all dress up for Bill”. In 2008, the French government awarded him the “Legion de Honor” prize and in 2009 he was nominated “living legend” of New York. In the same city where he carried out his work, always taking a discreet back seat, seeking out the groundbreaking street fashion, which was really what was successful off the catwalks. Not for nothing, he was referred to as the street style king amongst New York society.

In 2010, the documentary, “Bill Cunningham New York” directed by Richard Press talked about the person behind the character. An audiovisual piece of work that revealed that Bill was much more than a street photographic and his passion for fashion was as equally intense as his work ethics. He was born in Boston in 1929, in the bosom of an Irish family, and before the New York Times he worked for the Chicago Tribune and the Daily News. He started out designing hats and later progressed to the magazines Details and Women’s Wear Daily. In 1967 he owned his first camera and could not give up his hobby of photographing people to document everything that caught his attention.

Bill Cunningham took off in an avid industry of individualisms and passing phenomena. Everybody wanted to be in one of his instant photos but Bill stayed on the sidelines. Even when he assisted the most prestigious fashion shows and high key parties, the visual chronicler maintained his distance. “This way you can be more objective” he assured. Actually, money never interested Bill, known for his modesty and austerity. “Money is the cheapest thing that exists. The most expensive is freedom” he used to say. And we all know that style cannot be bought, even at a time of extreme consumerism. These enduring principles and his expertise on picking up on the peculiarities of the New Yorkers outfits, have glorified the figure of Bill Cunningham leaving behind a deep legacy – aswell as a lesson in life inside the ephemeral empire. In his obituary, the editor of the Times was very precise “The powerful and rich in the fashion world wanted him by their side, but he remained one of most charming, kind and humble persons I have ever met. We have lost a legend and I am personally distraught to have lost a friend, concluded with regret Arthur Ochs Sulzberger Jr.

gratacos - Bill-Cunningham

gratacos - Bill-Cunningham

gratacos - Bill-Cunningham

gratacos - Bill-Cunningham

gratacos - Bill-Cunningham

gratacos - Bill-Cunningham

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