We like initiatives which take into account all agencies within the sector and which provide a platform for the smallest companies, stick up for local industry and back those who need a push to reactivate a business which had been affected by the economic crisis. In this respect 080 Barcelona Fashion, via various public institutions in Catalonia and textile organisations, has provided the impulse for a new event for the promotion of textile and design in the l’Anoia region.
The initiative is called 08700- Nits de Pell i Punt ( Nights of Fur and Knitwear ) and next Thursday 23rd February in Igualada it will reunite a sample of designers and professionals within the sector in a single day-session where emerging designers and Catalan companies linked to leather-ware will participate in a fashion-parade. Below we give you more details about each of the participants:
The company set-up by the debutants Núria Costa and Anne Costo conceives of fashion as being each person’s demand for individuality. These two designers create knitted garments enhanced by the latest technological innovations.
2. Alicia González
This young designer has worked in the design department of companies such as Josep Font, Lydia Delgado, Guillermina Baeza and Mango. In Mango she discovered her passion for knitwear. In her company ODD ONE OUT Alicia González goes for an “urban luxury” style with knitted garments created with superior fibres and hand-crafted techniques. She offers quality, exclusivity and atemporality in clothes where the very last detail spoils the wearer.
3. Xavi Grados
After his appearance at 080 Barcelona Fashion the designer from Igualada combines his work in his own company with that he carried out in the design department of Punto Blanco. Xavi Grados carries the banner for his town with the knitwear and leather-work in each and every one of his garments placing emphasis on the raw materials.
4. Peletería VM La Sibèria
This celebrated Barcelona furrier, founded in 1891, continues tradition thanks to the passion for the job which each generation of the same family has inherited. Peletería VM La Sibèria are experts in producing the furs in locally-based work-shops where all attention is given to innovation and design.
In this economic and cultural encounter, which will take place in La Sala, in the Cercle Mercantil there will also be an exhibition of products designed by entrepreneurs and local brands produced in the region.
It offers a date with local industry at the end of a week full of activities linked to the fashion industry. Everything suggests that, in addition to the biennial fashion-parades, 080 Barcelona Fashion will continue its commitment to backing promotional initiatives in fashion which are springing up in various parts of Catalonia.
February is the month for fashion weeks. Barcelona, New York, London, now Madrid and to finish off Milan. Concentrating on the Spanish capital, in this edition a total of 42 Spanish companies will parade on the cat-walk Mercedes/Benz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWM), which is presenting an agenda full of organisational innovations. One of these is the incorporation of Charo Izquierdo as director, who takes over from Leonor Pérez-Pita. Another is in the participating creative designers, with new names to swell their list. As usual the main event in Spanish fashion will take place from 16th until 21st February in pavilion number 14.1 of Ifema.
With regard to the designers, this year sees the addition of important names in fashion such as Custo Barcelona, Menchén Tomàs and Marcos Luengo. The first two are regulars of the Catalan fashion-parades. These individual-based companies are in addition to the list of designers who participate every year in the MBFWM, such as Roberto Verino, Angel Schlesser, Moisés Nieto, Miguel Marinero, Teresa Helbig, The 2nd Skin Co or Maine, amongst other well-known names.
Juan Carlos Pajares
In the category of young fashion talents, SAMSUNG EGO also mentions the designer Juan Carlos Pajares, whose path we have been following since his debut last year. He is a fashion entrepreneur from Guadalajara with a style that has proved seductive for many Spanish celebrities. The Samsung Ego Showroom will take place in El Cibelespacio and will feature the participation of fifteen young designers.
The trend “I see it and I want it” is becoming established in Spain.
Without doubt the trend revelation of the year is the so-called “See now, Buy Now” boasted by international fashion-houses such as Tom Ford, Burberry or Tommy Hilfiger. After its success in080Barcelona Fashion this novel business concept of presenting the collections which consumers will then buy on-the-spot is arriving in Madrid courtesy of Roberto Verino. This new formula consists in creating collections which customers can see and buy on-the-spot, encouraging a consumption which is sustainable and responsible.
At Gratacós we will be keeping a close watch on the fashion-parades so as to not lose sight of any of our fabrics. We will keep you informed…
Following an intensive week of fashion shows where the creativity of the Catalan fashion industry has been evident, from Gratacós we would like to make special mention to those Autumn-Winter 2017/2018 collections that we liked most for one reason or another. Before analyzing the most interesting proposals we want to congratulate those given awards in the last edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion: the young talent Daniel Rosa, the designer Oscarleon, Antonio Miro and the textile firm Escorpion whose proposal was designed by Juanma Granero.
As in every edition, we like seeing that our fabrics are part of the garments, to taste and enjoy by their creators, and that these capture all the flashes on the catwalk.
1. The reflections of Pilar del Campo
Pilar del Campo started out on the Catalan catwalk with a reflective proposal that portrayed fashion as a mirror of society. Those things that give ourselves away and make us transparent and unconsciously show who we are and where we are at every moment. So, the proposal “Reflections” mixes garments with a large volume of futuristic glows on the shoulders and sleeves with shiny and metallic fabrics, mixed together with others with a more classic drapery aspect using materials such as lace or velvet. The latter tight on the body. A personal interpretation of current fashion where the contemporary co-exists with the traditional in equal proportions.
2. Justicia Ruano, hedonistic fashion
Justicia Ruano’s wife is feminine, delicate and sophisticated. To demonstrate these values and under the premise “L’art de vivre”, that emphasizes the capacity to enjoy the little things in life, the Barcelona born firm presented the “Hedonism” collection dedicated to happiness and pleasure. How? Through garments that enhance the silhouette in a provoking mixture of affluence and subtlety. Stiff fabrics together with other more flexible ones, transparencies with opaqueness and soft pastel colours with emerald, black or wine tones. A dual collection that coexists harmoniously.
3. Playback by Brain & Beast
Brain&Beast does not have middle ground. The visceral brand by Ángel Vilda fights against indifference using originality and transgression and they always astound. On this occasion, the brands embarks on the new triology with “Playback”, a gestural revision of this musical concept in a theatrical proposal full of contradictory meanings. To be highlighted, the disturbing messages on the tops, the demystification of the popular icons and transgender models. We like the canonization of tailoring, the oriental cuts and the new life given to our Jacquards. Bravo!
Paula Boadas and Jessica Raya are the alma mater of SSIC and Paul, a fashion-house founded in 2012 which combines creativity with functionality via garments with a Nordic inspiration which nonetheless do not lose their Mediterranean essence. The brand goes for a rational design along minimalist lines in which priority is given to shapes and materials, all under the label “made in Barcelona”, for workmanship and locally-based production in a company which opts for discreet luxury.
Do you recall how the project started ?
Paula: Yes, of course ! – she smiles – It was in our days as design students in Felicidad Duce. We met there, got on well and started to create a joint project.
Jessica: the truth is that we had a pretty good idea that we wanted to focus on this and to establish a brand.
SSIC and Paul is in fact an abbreviation of your two names…
Paula: Exactly ! It’s difficult to remember the name of the brand, but they are our abbreviated initials. We don’t complicate things by searching for other ones !
What do each of you bring to the brand ? How do you structure things ?
Jessica: In reality the two of us do everything and we complement each other with regard to ideas for the collections. Basically it is practical that there are two of us because we can give each other ideas.
Paula: The truth is that the key to our success is that right from the start we have also had this empathy and this commonality. We’ve been together 10 years, 5 of which are as a brand, which is no small thing. Now we have more business acumen we share the design tasks and then we divide up the work to produce it all.
“ It’s practical that there are two of us because we can give each other ideas !
What I specifically wanted to ask you both is when did you change your approach to give your company a more business-oriented slant ?
Paula : To be specific it was the moment we realised that it wasn’t a game and that we wanted to dedicate ourselves to it. We tailor our products to price and we always adapt to the market.
Jessica: Yes, when you start to run shops you come to see what people like, what sells and what doesn’t sell.
How do you find the happy medium between the commercial and the creative ?
Paula: Obviously you have to have your feet on the ground, but without sacrificing design, quality or creativity. The only thing we do is to make some garments more commercial and others more conceptual.
Jessica: Without doubt that is the most difficult part, because you have to develop your own identity but also take into account that what you create is saleable.
So in your case the identity is Northern soul and Mediterranean essence ?
Jessica: Yes, we have a minimalist, more contemporary style, more in keeping with northern design, but we adapt it to our soociety. We like our brand to be linked with the northern soul of the Mediterranean.
Paula: We also consider ourselves a brand “made in Barcelona” because we make everything in our workshops here.
“You have to have your feet on the ground, but without sacrificing design or creativity”
Two years ago you opened your own shop in the Sant Gervasi district. How many other business outlets do you have ?
Paula: Yes, and now we have 15 multi-brand sales points throught Spain and we are growing on the international front.
In which countries ?
Jessica: Italy, Belgium, USA and now Mexico. It also depends on the collection.
What is your link with Gratacós ?
We’ve always seen the shop as a point of reference in Barcelona. We especially adore it because in addition to the quality they also sell different fabrics which offer a little bit more than what already exists in the market.
Paula: Yes, above all the quality, which is noted in the fabrics and the textures. In Gratacós we like to buy the fabrics for holiday collections, they are dazzlingly spectacular.
“Gratacós sells fabrics which are different from what already exists in the market “
What challenges are you giving yourselves for 2017 ?
Paula: Global international expansion. Now we are concentrating on trade-fairs in order to acquire more international customers. We are looking outwards.
Your “must have” garment… tunic
A fetish fabric…silk
The colour you won’t give up… ivory
An infallible style rule… Cloaks and overlays
Favourite place in Barcelona…Gratacós
Advice for starters…Keep going
Your “leitmotif”… Northern soul from the Mediterranean
There are more and more initiatives aimed at emerging talent in design and whose structure and organisational capacity are improving, so that gradually they are coming to exert their influence on the all-powerful fashion industry. The latest to give a voice to young designers are the Future of Fashion days organised by the newly created platform Piscolabis Designers, the association of emerging independent designers from Catalonia, an entity dedicated to encouraging and spreading a creativity with its own identity and whose production is local and limited. No cloning and no overcrowding.
These days will take place these coming 4th and 5th February in the multi-functional Mazda Space and within the framework of “Activity OFF” of the 080 Barcelona Fashion parade which takes place this week in the city. So during that weekend Future of Fashion will give us a close-up view of the most striking creations by 35 emerging designers from Barcelona with a selection of clothes, footwear, hand-bags, jewelry, bric-à- brac and furnishings. The show-room will be a feature of artistic decoration created by the interior designer Diego Candea in collaboration with the School of Window-Dressing and Artidi Visual Merchandising.
Apart from the commercial angle, Future of Fashion will also feature didactic and informative aspects with regard to entrepreneurial matters and design. For that reason prestigious professionals from the world of fashion, technology, marketing, business strategy and fashion trends will give presentations on specific topics. Mónica Mendoza, Laura Clèries, Juan Pablo Sánchez, Estel Vilaseca, Jaume Vidiella, Sònia Rotats, Ignasi Saun, Aldanondo and Fdez. There will also be round-table discussions led by participating designers such as Citrique Heart, Colmillo de Morsa or Elena Estaun, amongst others.
In addition to design and its promotion there will also be various musical sessions by D.J.’s from Discos Paradiso, films, videos and an exhibition about the creative process, where participating designers will share visually their most intimate moments.
This is a unique opportunity to get to know some of the designers and sector professionals from the local community. Highly recommended!
Cloth, corduroy and wool constitute the ideal trident to face up to the low temperatures. Some people brand them as classics because they can be worn in all seasons, by virtue of their long history within fashion or due to their versatility. What nobody can deny is that now is the moment when these fabrics are shown in their full splendour.
On the catwalks wool can also be glimpsed in winter outfits yet without the slightest loss in style. This natural fabric is present in beautiful coats with a masculine style, double-sided or with the twin buttons of military aesthetic; tailored jackets or cloaks that are in fashion for yet another season, adorning some looks with their innate elegance. This adaptable fabric also proves seductive with other garments such as the unbeatable thick jumpers so suited to these months, clean-cut midi-skirts or dresses with a minimalist look.
How best to wear this fabric? This season wool is to be found in the form of figure-eights, mottled, with thick stitches or in the form of canalé in XXL size. As well it can be worn for its own look, the contrasts joining woollen garments with other diametrically-opposed fabrics such as silk. The top colours this winter are pink in all of its shades, navy-blue and those unbeatable browns.
In Gratacós we also have woollen fabrics which will enable you to add to your wardrobe this warm garment which is so needed in the coming months. Be inspired!
080 Barcelona Fashion is finalising preparations for a new edition which will exhibit the talent and creativity of 33 brands and designers who will present their collections for the coming season Autumn-Winter 2017/2018. This time the competition will take place from 30th January till 3rd February in the National Theatre of Catalonia (TNC) which is celebrating 20 years of existence. An archetypal stage-setting for Barcelona, conceived of in order to strengthen links between fashion and theatre. Given this motive it is not surprising that the inauguration of the fashion parade will welcome the presence of the celebrated French designer Pierre Cardin, who will come to Barcelona to present his new production “ Dorian Gray. Beauty shows no mercy”, a musical montage about the world of Oscar Wilde which had its première last summer in Venice.
On the creative front some great designers, such as Sita Murt or Menchèn Tomàs, are notable for their absence, although there are new additions, such as the young designers Daniel Rosa, Anel Yaos and Pilar del Campo, the company Aubergin, the designs for children by Little Creative Factory and men’s underwear E.S.Collection. Special mention should be made of the participation of designers who collaborate closely with our shop, such as Justicia Ruano, who will present his collection “Hedonism” for the rebel-seductress woman; also Brain and Beast with their presentation “Trilogy Vol Y Playback”. Angel Vilda will surely surprise with new designs whose aesthetic is that of the seventies and with large doses of humour- sometimes with a show of temper -whose conception we find fascinating. The fabrics in the collection are by Gratacós and soon we will be seeing the results.
Commercially one of the most surprising innovations is the introduction of the trend ready to buy – seen on other international fashion parades and in companies like Burberry or Tommy Hilfiger – in some of the collections by the Catalan designers. Specifically this is the case with companies such as Custo Barcelona, TCN, Escorpion and the designer ZE García. This means that the garments exhibited on the cat-walk can be bought on the spot and in this case they will correspond to displays from this coming Spring season. What seems all the more interesting is the offering by Manuel Bolano, who is adopting this trend; his presentation is in the format of an exhibition of his “’Plan B” collection, where he reinterprets studio pieces which will be commercialized exclusively on his web-page and which can be acquired on the same day of the parades. I see it, I want it, I’ll buy it.
In connection with the young designers and the future of the sector we should like to mention once again the new edition of Barcelona Fashion Summit as a meeting point for professionals in the fashion business. On this occasion the day-session will centre on the topic “Next Generation : the Future of the Fashion Business “ with analysis of topics such as the leading young entrepreneurs, the new consumers, the change in generations or the new forms of management and business demanded by the fashion industry.
They are not everyday designers and each of them maintains his or her differing style within the independent design sector, a cake to be divided up between creators who share the same philosophy: authenticity, character, workmanship, honesty and just some doses of austerity. Txell Miras, Josep Abril y Miriam Ponsa gelled very well in the Rec district of Igualada, where in the same presentation space they defended their creations before the consumers who were visiting the Rec.0 Experimental Stores, a commercial initiative in a temporary format where twice a year fashion companies sell their stock. This casual alliance, together with good relations between the three of them swiftly led towards a robust and motivating project for all three.
Some years ago the experimental shop Project #01 in the district of Le Marais, the celebrated fashion district of Paris, was born in a similar way. The good welcome it received in the French capital was key to its successful move to Barcelona. In a similar way, when NU#2 emerged last year in the Eixample it revitalized local trade with its offering of alternative design, its ethics and aesthetics far away from the traditional franchises and chain-stores that flood the centre of Barcelona.
NU#2 is not a conventional shop and the presentation are reflects the essence of the designs and the personality of its creators. As its name indicates, #NU2 is a reference to nudity and its radical approach is to show the world fashion such as they conceive it, without make-up or cover-up. Situated in a 260m2 former store-house for electrical materials #NU2 recreates the spirit of the original space by preserving its structure and the charm of its old industrial aesthetic as found in the cracks in the walls or faults in the floor. In it Txell Miras, Josep Asbril and Miriam Ponsa exhibit the season’s male and female fashion collections while at the same time housing other designers with a similar attitude and which complement what is on offer, such as handbags by Cristina Corres, shoes by the Mallorcan Pep Monjo, pieces of industrial design by Aparentment or the spectacular metallic furniture of Jonathan Singleton, who was also responsible for the lay-out of the shop-window and for what is hanging in the shop. Nothing is there just by chance.
The space is also often utilized as a multi-purpose hall where events are held which are linked to independent fashion. Recently the influential Catalan trio opened a new shop, #NU3 situated on the creator design floor in Pedralbes Centre. One more reason to confirm that a different form of production and consumption is possible and totally necessary within the current panorama.
Every year one colour is crowned king of the chromatic palette. A shade which dominates, marks and inspires the world of fashion, design, decoration and advertising, amongst other spheres. Its choice is not mere haphazard whim, because behind its nomination there is a powerful universal authority on colour which, via an exhaustive sociological study, finds the shade which will influence the coming twelve months with its communicative power and its capacity to influence moods.
So it is that according to Pantone, an international reference-point for colouring, this year 2017 will be tinged with Greenery green. A vivid and cheerful shade which is bursting forth this year as symbol of a transition from moments of troubled upheaval. Leatrice Eiseman, the executive head of Pantone, refers to this shade as “the tranquility that we yearn for in the midst of the tumultuous social and political panorama that surrounds us. Satisfying our growing desire for rejuvenation and revitalisation, Greenery symbolizes the reconnection with nature which all of us are seeking, something which offers us greater things “. This last affirmation makes reference to our need to connect with the fresh air and to wonder at the physical beauty of the natural world: fields, forests, mountains…a way of escaping our modern life in cities with drab-coloured buildings and roads. In this context Eiseman assures us that Greenery “evokes the days of early Spring, when Nature is revived, restored and renewed.” This shade of green also connects with a healthy life-style, with organic and natural food, re-stating the value of what the earth provides additives-free.
Greenery green contains brush-strokes of yellow and is a fairly unusual shade in the fashion world, although easily recognizable. On the cat-walk companies like Gucci and Balenciaga have included this colour in their Spring-Summer collections. In decoration the light and tranquility of Greenery will creep into the home by revealing it’s so seductive natural exuberance. This shade blends with earthy and wood colours, with the monochromatic ranges where neutral colours predominate. Apart from the presence of plants Greenery will be taking over fabrics, textiles and walls, with infinite decorative possibilities.
You will find our Greenery fabrics inspirational for welcoming in this new period of renewal with a vivid, cheerful and natural colour.
The start of the year also marks the beginning of the winter sales. Since 7th January we have been promoting the new discounts on fabrics that you will be able to find in our Barcelona shop with the help of our professional team who will advice you according to your needs.
In addition to your own preferences we are going to give you some ideas as to how you can take advantage of the fabrics which are currently most in fashion with suggestions for garments for all seasons which will add depth to your wardrobe.
Velvet has been the king of fabrics in this winter season. Soft, elegant and majestic, its presence adds glamour to your soirées. This season it has been present in Victoriana looks with its dark shades such as burgundy, ink-blue or moss-green. This fabric is ideal for designing your own jacket or draped dress – with a cotton jersey underneath.
This gleaming fabric revives the decade of the eighties with disco-inspired metallic styles that dazzle as they pass by. We recommend this fabric in small doses, in small details or in key garments like a long dress in the best “Old Hollywood “style that never goes out of fashion.
Glittering sequins are always a sure bet for festive styles, decorating the most sophisticated garments with their sparkle. They can be worn full-on or in version XS in skirts, dresses, jackets or boleros. One piece of advice about style : always combine this fabric with more sober print-less garments for a look that will serve you well in day-time too.
Pleasing to both eye and touch. Soft, ethereal, sophisticated… Satin is a sensual fabric which adds femininity to garments. This season it has been seen on the cat-walks in the shape of night-dresses or draped tops which transfer the intimacy of the bed-room into the street.
This romantic fabric creates see-through effects in blouses and dresses, where the seams and layers hide strategic body-zones. A feminine fabric which is becoming indispensable at any time of the year, adding sophistication to your outfits. We recommend it in black, beige or pale pink.