What colours will be in Fashion in summer 2018? Who decides the trends? How will they be applied?
All these questions, aswell as many others, will be resolved in the The Color Community, a project we have supported since the beginning. This informative initiative is organized twice a year by three creative professionals that share interests and sensations towards the world of colour and design and seek to be a guide for inspiration for those engaged in this sector. The organizers are Eva Muñoz, designer and specialist in Color & Trim; Pere Ortega, architect in Saeta Estudi and Rosa Pujol, fabric and colour stylist in Gratacós. In this seventh edition, organized in the old Damm factory in Barcelona, around five hundred people attended to hear about the latest chromatic trends for 2018. The context of colour, material and its applications were some of the topics discussed at the conference.
The concept of colours for the Spring-Summer 2018 season goes by the name “Mirages”. This word describes the optical illusion created by the complete reflection of light and which connects to several current concepts that can be seen in the fashion industry.
The concept is structured around 4 colour ranges:
1. Please Touch!
It groups together a tactile and sensitive range that invites us to experiment, touch and use.
This range is about geometric simplicity. By working the bicolour and tricolor combinations in a cheerful, clean and flat proposal with reminiscences of sport.
3. Fluid Signs
A defined and clear range with influence of liquids that dilute. Included in this range is a touch of folk, denim and floral prints. Nature and food are the motor of its inspiration.
This is the range that is closest to the concept of mirages and refers to the harmony of colours to be developed in monochrome or mixed with any shade of other ranges. Metallic colours gain importance.
If it shines it is more and better. This could be the slogan for one of the most daring trends this Autumn: metallic colours. Fabrics and materials with their own shine such as lurex or lame are the order of the day and are back in the limelight this season with strong influences of the 80’s and nostalgic disco. So, with the cold coming, we can retrieve our sparkling garments from the wardrobe and mix them with more basic clothes in neutral tones, creating impact attire. Pleated midi skirts, tight trousers, “Old Hollywood” style dresses with suggestive cleavages or blazers with a clear nod to glam rock.
Lamé is a hybrid fabric that contains metallic material and a filler-cloth such as nylon or polyester. These fabrics are woven together to create a shiny and light material. Traditionally lame was used in artistic garments such as cinema, theatre or dance costumes and worn on special occasions to be remembered. Used in tops, skirts or dresses and also as decoration in accessories and evening wear. Fashions pass and trends vary. Now, this daring fabric is no longer just for the Christmas season, but can be seen on the most striking everyday outfits. The bling bling style invades the high street.
In terms of colour, lame fabric usually comes in gold or silver, although this season copper, moss green and dark blue tones have also been seen on the catwalk. To get an idea of how to combine these -at first glance difficult fabrics-, you just need to check out the latest offerings of the luxury brands such as Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana or Saint Laurent.
In Gratacós we also have articles with lamé. Take a look and conjure up your metallic garment to sparkle up any occasion. There is no excuse not to!
Xevi Fernández made his personal mark in the last edition of the Samsung Ego catwalk show at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Madrid. Something which is very difficult given the creative proposals that are exhibited in each show. The Empordà designer, who trained in Barcelona, chose once again a futuristic theme as his focus point in a masculine and feminine collection that was both contemporary and 100% wearable.
Under the name of “Delay”, the Spring-Summer 2017 collection is inspired in the most common errors of this digital age –glitches, gliasing, bugs – that upon reading form erroneous figures or images due to files wrongly coded or damaged. Xevi Fernández bases himself on this paradox and reflects these errors in textures, fabrics and prints, depriving them of their negative connotations and showing their constructive and generating potential.
It is precisely in this collection that there has been exceptional work gone into the textures and different materials that become distorted using different techniques. Latex is presented pleated, the leather is altered using moulds that deform it, neoprene is printed on and the tulle acquires more volume by using various layers. The designer has used Gratacós fabrics to elaborate some of the looks exhibited on the Madrid catwalk show for original young talents.
In Delay, the colours are inspired also in the glicht, even as a print, pastel tones such as yellow, pink and pale blue mix together with lilac and black. Shapes range from narrow garments that completely show off the figure to oversize clothes such as kimonos or parkas, aswell as straight cut A-Line style garments.
As a final touch to the show, the all-round burlesque artist Vinila von Bismark was in charge of opening and closing the show with two of the most representative looks of the collection.
This is the second edition of the Samsung Ego show that Xevi Fernández has participated in following his debut with “The Last Future”. A promising creator that will go far. In Gratacós we will keep a close eye on him.
Thursday 29 September 2016
It is practically impossible to list the amount of cultural activities that take place every month in a quality City such as Barcelona that has a divulging spirit and common interest. Amongst the interesting proposals, we want to make reference to one that will seduce those linked to photography, fashion and design. Regardless of whether they are professionals or enthusiasts in these fields.
For the last few weeks, the Palau Robert has been host to the exhibition 80 portraits by the Galician born photographer Manuel Outumuro, which includes distinguished figures of the Barcelona society. Actors such as Carme Elias, Eduard Fernàndez or Jordi Mollà; comedians such as the Tricicle, architects such as Òscar Tusquets and Beth Galí, writers like Eduardo Mendoza and Rosa Regàs or models including Martina Klein and Verónica Blume, amongst others. This new edition by the brilliant photographer plays tribute to the great masters of painting and also film legends, with clear aesthetic references in every one of his portraits. In this new exhibition, Outumuro displays his speciality that is creativity in the portrait . “It is a field that is open to all types of innovations and freedom” he assures. His aim is also for the photography to communicate something special to the spectators, “because if the image is good it gives good vibes to many people” he explains. It is not the first time that Outumuros work has been on show in the Palau Robert. In 2004, the renowned artist exhibited «La vitrina del fotógrafo» (the photographers´window) a compilation of his photographs and archive material: polaroids, contacts, lab tests….
Manuel Outumuro was born in 1949 in A Merca (Ourense) and he moved to Barcelona when he was young. He studied in the Massana school as a graphic designer. He worked as an art director but it was not until he was 40 years old did he teach himself the art of photography. Since then, Outumuro has been working continually with the big fashion magazines and the head of the main press and media. His work has also been seen in various publications, books and individual and collective exhibitions.
From here in Gratacós, we want to share the talent of Outumuro and we encourage you to attend his latest eclectic display that honours the know how of this Galician artist.
Tuesday 27 September 2016
Juan Gratacós (father) has just turned 80. He represents the second generation of the family business that was begun by his parents: Antonio and Josefina. Beyond continuing the tradition, he has made sure-with effort and perseverance – that Gratacós moves forward in the right direction with the commitment of the new generations of the family that maintain afloat this iconic shop, leader in fabrics in Spain.
We interviewed Juan briefly on his birthday to offer him symbolically our sincere congratulations.
What legacy did you inherit from your father, Antonio Gratacós and what have you transmitted to your son?
I inherited from my father his perseverance in work and I learnt how to form a friendly team to sustain the business. I have endeavored to transmit this ambition to my children: both those working in Gratacós and also out.
What is left from the essence of your beginnings in the current Gratacós?
The company is changing but the common denominator is the goal to be close to the customer offering fashion alternatives that the present moment requires.
“The company is changing but the common denominator is the goal to be close to the customer”
How do you think the company is currently positioned?
This truly remains unknown because the customers decide. On our part, we put all the effort possible into offering the latest creations and position ourselves at the top.
Why is it important to maintain afloat family businesses?
Unity, that is decisive. In everything, all the workforce in the same direction, even if it binds different characters, but the purpose is the same: UNITY.
“Unity is the most important”
Tradition, know-how, compromise with the family and the customers…What other traits does Gratacós have that strengthen their position on the market?
Training, curiosity and passion for the job.
How do you see the future of the company? Are you proud of your career?
At the present time, I take pride in the managers of the company: my son Juan and my nephew Antonio.
Thank you for sparing us your time Juan and from all the team we wish you a happy birthday.
Thursday 22 September 2016
The upcoming winter collection is on its way. As specialists in fashion, Gratacós is working on the colours and fabrics for next winter to anticipate our customer’s needs. This month of September, our team has got together in the biannual meeting that we organize to reveal the trends that will be in fashion in one year; the Autumn-Winter 2017/2018 season. This event is led by Rosa Pujol Sans, textile & colour stylist in Gratacós. Here you will find a summary of the findings presented by our expert.
What is new?
The most feminine colour of the chromatic palette is back to tinge winter garments. “It is a colour that is in fashion and which is becoming increasingly timeless” highlights Rosa Pujol. The pink which is coming is a lot more matt than other seasons and combines with blue tones for day garments and red for special occasions.
2. Almost White
In the neutral category, next season we will see light beiges, off-whites and some pinches of metallic grey. “These colours will be mixed with cool oranges, blues and greens” explains Pujol.
This colour with military relics becomes sophisticated and teams together with silk to distance it from streetwear. “It is a very powerful colour that radiates strength and energy” argues Rosa Pujol. It looks good when mixed with other greens for a camouflage effect and gives rise to experiment with fancy fabrics, embroidery and jacquards.
The range of dark and vibrant blues is back once again. “Next winter indigo and ink colours will be in fashion, as well as the denim trend from previous collections” claims Pujol.
Unbeatable to the passage of time, the colour of blood, desire, love and seduction, red will be present in all types of fabrics again this winter. According to Pujol “livelier tones will be more in fashion than duller ones”.
The 2018 season is gold. The colour of money presents itself in its most matt and least intense version.
In terms of fabrics, the options are more diffused. “Everything is in fashion: jacquards with plains, embroidery with reliefs…..”How we show it is the most important” assures Rosa Pujol. In this way, the fabrics become warm, comfortable and light. “It is important to associate winter with comfort. This would be the highest priority for the next season”.
Next winter, the fabrics also acquire a touch of wool to invoke the cold season. Other trends that are coming: false plains with a relief touch, shiny materials and fancy fabrics continue to look for their reference place, with regards to past seasons. Lastly, a revolutionary fabric has appeared: recycled wool. “It is an innovation in the world of silk and we love it”, concludes Pujol.
Tuesday 20 September 2016
José María García has spent the last 4 years in charge of his female fashion brand, designing dresses and suits for special occasions in his workshop in Barcelona. Ze Garcia is synonymous of affordable haute couture for the modern, sensual and elegant woman. Each and every garment is made to measure, taking into account the style, personality and silhouette of the customer. Ze Garcia must have something special considering all the fashion instagrammers follow him. Including Dulceida who has confided her trust in the young Catalan designer and given him the task of designing her wedding dress. An online phenomenon that has caused a lot of sensation. Beyond this passing boom, Jose María García presses forward with his work at a steady pace and with very clear ideas…
Did you expect to be a dying sensation with the wedding designs for Dulceida? The social networks are still raving on about it….
These past few days have been crazy and we did not expect this media coverage. The number of my followers has increased drastically. I’d already worked with Dulceida in the past with other designs for different events she had attended, but it is true that the wedding has been a complete boom.
The big wedding brands such as Pronovias or Rosa Clará were chasing after the famous dress…
I know, I know. However, Aida and I are friends and she has always trusted me; both as a designer and as a friend. I have been working with her for many years and I know her tastes and her measurements and I know I won’t let her down. It was a great pleasure for me to be given the the responsability of designing her two wedding dresses and also her girlfriend Albas´. This has allowed me to do three styles: one princess style dress with 40 metres of tulle, another more bohemian one like what is in fashion now and the third a tailored suit with a V-neck body which is what Im most used to doing.
«Dulceida has given me the responsability of designing her wedding dresses»
This has allowed you to experiment with a variety of styles….
Exactly! For me, the most important part of this experience has been that I have not been pigeon-holed into one concrete style, but I’ve been able to adapt the style to each girl.
With so many admirers, have the complements or criticisms affected you?
Its been fine, because my main worry was if the dresses were made up correctly at a technical level and also the brides’ expectations. Obviously everyone has different tastes so there will be people who like them alot and others who do not.
The fabric for the wedding dresses was bought from Gratacós, but its true that you often confide in us…
I’ve confided in you for a long time now. The quality of fabrics in your shop is the best. It is true that I vary where I buy my fabrics from, but you have always been a reference for me. When you need a “top” fabric, you can find it in Gratacós.
«When you need a “top” fabric, you can find it in Gratacós»
How did you start out in the design world? You mentioned that you were born with it in your blood….
I always wanted to be a designer and I was sure of this ever since I was little. I started sewing classes at 12 and I later realized I needed to learn the trade so I began studing at the Technical Art Fashion School in the Ramon LLul University in Barcelona. When I finished my studies, I began working for Emporio Armani in charge of visual image – shop window displays and styles. After working with several brands, I decided to begin my own.
How do you differentiate yourself from your competition?
The designers approach, personal taste and the things you bet on are important. Every brand has its creators signature and in ZE García its me myself.
What do you offer your customer?
I always attend to them. In fact, I always do this; I assist more than I design. Nowadays it is more important to know how to sell than what to sell.
«Its more important to assist than design»
How do you work in Ze García?
Always upon request. The customer comes to our showroom in C/Tuset and there they can take a look at our best selling garments that are on show. These are generally single garments rather than made up dresses, because the type of customer who comes to us has many events, so what we aim to do as a brand is that from one dress we can do various options.
What type of customers do you have?
A typical customer is a young attractive girl from 20 to 35 years old. Im really lucky!- he says smiling.
Which other celebrities have worn your designs?
The majority of fashion instagrammers such as Belén Hostalet or Inés Arroyo and actresses such as
Thaïs Blume who came here to Gratacós. Im quite selective when it comes to actresses and I always decide who I want to wear my designs.
What challenges lay ahead for the upcoming years?
At the moment, stay as I am at a sure and steady pace. My brand has been running for 4 years (he is now 28 years old) and I want to mature as a designer with it. I enjoy everything a lot more if things just happen without planning.
An essential garment… For a girl, a Vneck
A fetish fabric… Something that is shiny and conjures up the night
A colour you could not live without.. Black and red
A designer you admire… Tom Ford. I find him good in design and also at selling
An infallible style rule… A masculine-feminine mix
Your preferred space in Barcelona… I know so many different places that right now I cannot answer
A piece of advice for those starting out… Focus on what you want to do
Your leitmotif… Slowly but surely
Thursday 15 September 2016
They call it the new black. Enigmatic and evocative at the same time. Associated with the night and deep waters. Back in the chromatic winter palette is the colour blue to portray its strength and functionality beyond the sobriety it has us used to.
This colour was already going strong last summer, taking over complete looks in its darkest versions. Indications suggest that it will present in our wardrobe for another season, especially in accessories.
Designers in large luxury fashion brands have used blue to add colour to new autumn garments. Masculine style coats, velvet jackets-the star fabric of the season – baby doll dresses or amazing tops for the most sophisticated of nights out. Tommy Hilfigers casual sailor style, the 80s influence in Balenciaga, the Victorian influence in Ralph Lauren or Prada´s post war muses are some examples of how each creator has set a trend using the extensive palette of dark blue. From ultramarine to lapis lazuli, a tone with is particularly inspiring this season with a batch of fabrics so you can design winter clothes.
Here we leave you with our moodboard with a selection of our best fabrics for you to get some inspiration:http://www.gratacos.com/shoponline/en/inspiracion/lapislazuli
Tuesday 13 September 2016
A new initiative has been launched for the design sector in Cataluña which aims to interchange synergies through didactical meetings. It’s called Designers Fashion Experiences and consists of monthly meetings between designers, professionals and renowned celebrities of the sector both on a national and international level. It is an opportunity for fashion students to learn the business from different perspectives and enhance their professional career. An incentive for the students to pursue their careers with advice and new points of view through the voice of experience from those who have succeeded in the fashion industry.
In the 4th trimester of 2016, there will be 6 presentations carried out by the following designers: Dolores Cortés in swimwear, Llamazares y de Delgado, Miquel Suay, Jordi Dalmau in bridal fashion, Oscarleon and Txell Miras. The conferences will take place in Casa Gracia, situated in Passeig de Gràcia, 116. This multiplural space symbolizes a world of travels, comparable to the path the designers have to take to get to know the fashion world. Creativity, colour, composition, innovation and hidden textures amongst different cultures and destinations.
This space is ideal to transmit the experiences of the designers, explaining the details of the smallest and greatest moments, and sharing their experiences with the students who in the future will become fashion creators, nourishing a new generation of this creative industry.
Gratacós supports Designers Fashion Experiences. As a family business dedicated to textile and linked to established creators and new talents, every year we promote new initiatives associated with training and development of fashion students.
The first conference will take place the upcoming 28th September 15, 2016 and will last until December. The aim is to repeat the experience a second time round in 2017.
September is the month of Fashion with new editions of the most prestigious fashion catwalks worldwide. After New York, the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid takes place in the Spanish capital. This upmost important event with the “made in Spain” design, takes place from the 15th to the 20th September in the exhibition hall 14.1 of the IFEMA Madrid trade fair.
The show brings together 41 Spanish creators (and 1 international designer from Kiev) who will present their Spring-Summer 2017 collections in an innovative way. The novelties include the incorporation of the creator Leandro Cano and also Malne, a brand created by Juanjo Mánez and Paloma Álvarez of unique and elegant garments. These conclude the catwalk shows of established designers in this edition.
Gratacós would like to highlight the participation of Catalan designers who confide in the family business. For example Andrés Sardá or Teresa Helbig and also other Spanish creators that receive their support such as Ángel Schlesser, Roberto Torreta, Juan Vidal, Amaya Arzuaga or The 2nd Skin Co, amongst others.
As is the custom, the last day of the catwalk show is dedicated to emerging design with a new edition of Samsung EGO. Furthermore, 15 young creators will present their designs in the Cibelesespacio Samsung Ego Showroom, with direct sales to the public during the days of the event. In this category, Gratacós would like to mention two young designers with a promising career:
1. Xevi Fernández
This designer from Empordà, studied in Barcelona in the Institut Català de la Moda. During his training, he won various competitions including ‘Young Talent Prize Bread & Butter’ 2009 in Berlín. His first collection “Nuclear” was awarded the prize of Best Masculine Collection by Creamoda in Bilbao. Xevi Fernández carried out his first work together with the designer Josep Font and this is where his interest began in the handicraft aspect of Haute Couture. The young designer has already participated in the Madrid catwalk show with his latest collection “The Last Future”, a collection with futuristic airs that reflects upon technology and society.
2. Juan Carlos Pajares
This 23 year old designer from Guadalajara is one of the fashion entrepreneurs with most influence. He studied in Saint Martins school in London and debuted last year in the Samsung Ego catwalk show with his collection Form Follow Function’ that did not leave anyone indifferent. So much so that some Spanish celebrities such as Nieves Álvarez, Berta Vázquez or Dafne Fernández have already been seen wearing some of his outfits at different events.