In yet another edition the old Damm factory in Barcelona brought together the sensitive project The Color Community to publicize new trends in materials, textures and colours for the Spring / Summer season 2019. The initiative was organized by three multidisciplinary professionals, Eva Muñoz, designer and specialist in Colour & Trim, Pere Ortega, architect in Saeta Estudi and Rosa Pujol stylist in fabrics and colours at Gratacós, to inspire creative professionals from various fields such as art, fashion, design or architecture. “We do not want to instruct, but to suggest through a palette rich in colours and textures which is very upbeat and energetic , ” explained Rosa Pujol at the beginning of the presentation.
Rosa Pujol: “We do not want to instruct, but to suggest”
In fact, apart from the presentation of the four trends via a video with inspirational images ( parades, campaigns, front pages and still-lifes), other senses also played a role, such as that of hearing, with mood music and that of taste with the tasting of different ice creams, one for each trend. “We want to create a sensory path where all inputs generate different connections and help create a global vision”, declares Rosa Pujol.
This edition of The Color Community focuses on the concept of ‘Synchro’: the constant connection between people and disciplines and how they interrelate with each other . The proposal is articulated through four colour ranges and textures.
It makes reference to multicultural connections with colours and materials that refer to the exoticism of other distant cultures. It aims for a reinterpretation of the ethnic style. There are tribal motifs,tones that mimic spices, cultural graphism, irregular geometry, elements of pop culture and a range of vivid and intense colours with shades like fuchsia, purple, blue or leaf-green.
An emotional trend that connects technology and virtual reality with a touch of nostalgia for the past. Innovation inspired by retro. In this trend synthetic materials abound, with industrial references, iridescent fabrics or luminous fibres. The chromatic palette focuses on technical green, pale blue and greys that act as a bridge between palettes.
A calm, quiet and evocative style that aims to promote a pause for reflection and exalt silence. Soft textures without too many reliefs, watercolours, fine lines, multilayers and soft shades like pale pink, sky blue or white with beige tints add colour to this contemplative trend.
It refers to eccentricity, delirium and surrealism. It connects these fantastic worlds with a naïve aesthetic through vivid and bold colours. It is a free and spontaneous style influenced by the plastic arts where there are abundant shades of fuchsia, yellow, turquoise or bright orange.
Finally, this edition of The Color Community was dedicated to Juan Gratacós Ortiz, president of Gratacós in a tribute after his recent death. “My father has always been a lover of colour and textures and in some way he is still present among us , “explained his son Juan Gratacós, full of emotion.
Last week we had the pleasure of welcoming to Gratacós Núria Sardà, designer for the women ‘s lingerie company, Andres Sarda. Nuria has continued the legacy of her father by maintaining the essence of the brand, one that combines sophistication, elegance and femininity with soft linen garments, lightweight shapes and fascinating colours that embellish every woman’s body. Within the framework of the conference Designers Fashion Experiences Nuria explained to those present the keys to success, which also deal with the adaptation and evolution of the brand to the new demands of the market. She left them with some valuable advice.
We interviewed Núria Sardà to learn about some of her concerns. Remember that you can recover the conversation we had last week on the website of Designers Fashion Experiences.
Why have you participated in the initiative Designers Fashion Experiences?
I like to support new designers as much as possible and these conferences seem to me a good reason for doing so. In addition the organization has given me a lot of confidence.
Andres Sarda has extensive professional experience which unites generations of the same family. What can you explain from your own experience?
Each person lives their own experience and it is always good to know it firsthand. In this day-session I have focused on the opportunities and also on some obstacles that I have had in my career.
I gather that your passion for design is inherited …
Not really, I never thought about dedicating myself to the world of design. I never chose this profession, but life led me to choose it .
“I never chose this profession, but life led me to choose it “
If you could go back in time, would you go back to design?
Yes, it’s a very stressful, fun and changeable job. It allows you to meet interesting people and tour the world. My daily routine is not strictly routine and allows me to express all my creativity. It is also true that it is a world where you are very exposed and your creations are judged severely by the company, the business world and lastly the customers. In this sense if everything goes well it is fantastic, but you also suffer because in each collection you put head, heart and soul. And there are many hours of work!
What obstacles are there in the fashion industry?
More than obstacles, I would call it circumstances. The offer, the distribution, the customers and their motivations. In this sector everything changes very quickly. We companies have to adapt to changes and advance according to to market movements.
“In every collection you put head, heart and soul”
Then adaptation is a tool that ensures survival. Which would you most emphasise?
From my point of view you need to have your personality in the creations, the quality and the reliability of the product and the company. This has to be coupled with adaptation and evolution of market needs, as I said previously.
What do you recommend to future designers?
That they should do what they do, make sure that their work is always original and that they contribute some innovation. Let them follow their instinct and never give up.
“We always have to look for excellence in everything we do”
Tips that might be a good leitmotiv…
Yes, we always have to look for excellence in everything we do.
Each season the fashion industry is determined to find the ideal substitute for black, the eternal classic. And it seems that this year a firm candidate has been found that convinces both critics and consumers alike: navy blue. As Christian Dior said back in the day: “Of all the colours, navy blue is the only one that can compete with black presenting the same virtues”. Not surprisingly, the second prêt-à-porter proposal by Maria Grazia Chiuri, current creative director recovered the colour of the French dressmaker in a transgressive way and in feminist key in a collection where jeans shared the centre stage with romantic tulle dresses creating uniform which reflect this attitude.
Beyond Dior, this wildcard tonality reigns in the majority of looks to be seen on autumn catwalks, in sober proposals that are at the same time, sophisticated and very appropriate for men and women. In fact, this color unifies and dilutes gender. Carolina Herrera, Hermes, DelPozo, Balenciaga … are some of the big names who have surrendered to the charm of tonality of the sea.
How to wear navy blue?
This autumn the monobloc combinations are in, where the blue is diversified: from the deep and evocative ultramarine to brighter tones like blue Klein. Textures take over from the prints and play a key role in the combinations, always accompanied by precious details such as metallic threads, sequins or inlaid rhinestones. Also to be seen will be floral Jacquards, polka dot prints and embossed graphic motifs that create fun optical games.
To be highlighted. velvet finds in blue a powerful ally for sensuality. Thus, the most glamorous garments succumb to the soft and sumptuous feel of this fabric that is linked to the night and mystery. Finally, navy does not completely untie from its main competitor: black colour. So it is no wonder that this season there are plenty of combinations of these two dark shades, showing that, despite what has always been said, blue and black match together.
Find the navy fabrics of the new season on our website or in the Gratacós shop
Once the last edition of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWM) has ended, we like to look back at how our fabrics have staged some of the most iconic looks of the Spring-Summer collections 2018. For Gratacós it is very enriching to see how designers transform these raw materials into beautiful shapes that form part of their catalogue for next season. Sometimes these feature in original two piece outfits, baggy skirts with a suggestive drape or even, dresses with metallic sparkles.
These are some fabrics that we “spotted” in the 66th edition of the Madrid catwalk.
Isabel Nuñez, the sensuality of the Middle East
Isabel Nuñez is inspired by the Middle East to present a collection full of contrasts. Where there are traditions, but also innovation and super luxury. Antagonism of two worlds that the young Madrid born designer portrays with handcrafted garments full of shine together with other more minimalist lines and colors that evoke the desert. Our favourite is this draped dress with plunging neckline, very fluid used in the form of tunic elaborated with pearly foil. A silhouette that reminisces the sensuality and exoticism of the Arab princesses.
Juan Carlos Pajares, the most feminine sporty style
The winner of last year’s ‘Talent’ award for young talent surprises with a collection presented in a mechanic`s workshop in Madrid and bears no relation whatsoever with the Mercedes-Benz brand. The proposal of Juan Carlos Pajares inspired by the mechanics of modern life was full of sporty style female silhouettes with a chromatic range of bright colors like blue Klein or Barbie pink, aswell as orange, green and white. We fell in love with the looks made with our floral mikado.
Menchen Tomàs, multicolour fantasy
After her debut last year, Menchén Tomàs made a big impact on the Madrid catwalk with a risky proposition filled with amazing mixtures with different fabrics, colors and patterns that create a harmonious chaos. For example, fine striped patterns converge with flowers with patterns that are wrapped around the waist like a corset. Precisely this look that we show you in the image that captivated us. The printed poppy satin of the skirt with a side opening is part of our collection.
Moises Nieto and the Picasso muses
Gratacós also sneaked into the last parade of Moisés Nieto in a collection inspired by the muses who were part of Picasso’s love life. To understand this proposal, one must pay attention to the critical details and the unpredictable pattern of every look that function as a metaphor for the chaotic love life of the painter through a strong trapeze silhouette that evokes Picasso Cubist forms. The look that we show you is made with one of our fabrics with silver sequins.
Palomo Spain, masculine is also feminine
The young designer Alejandro Gomez Palomo of the Cordoba based firm is the architect of the “Palomo boys” whose fame transcends borders. Men who wear garments, fabrics and silhouettes linked up to now with women. In the XXI century, gender codes fuse and Palomo Spain has devised an ethic with aesthetics where men can be women regardless of their status. The Spring-Summer SS18 collection was presented at the Hotel Wellington in Madrid in a room where the models recreated characters within a plot linked to the world of music, cinema and musical theatre. Among the looks we loved this muslin with golden leaves.
Tuesday 26 September 2017
One of the most interesting events of the year on the design front with regard to trend research and exploration of new talents, is returning. This is the FOD, Future of Design Days to be held in Barcelona on 7th and 8th October at the Mazda Space area located in the Born district. It is an initiative driven by the platform Piscolabis Designers,which supports young Catalan talents , and which has our support and collaboration.
What is the Future of Design? What challenges do independent designers face? Who are the most interesting independent designers in Catalonia? What does the FOD need from Catalan Design? These are some of the questions that will be addressed in this second edition. To this end, the conferences will have the presence of prestigious professionals, creative designers and experts in fashion marketing who will offer attendees a series of master classes and informative workshops so that young designers have tools to help them differentiate the product and have a vision of the future and develop strategies to boost or strengthen their business. Apart from access to knowledge it is about creating a space where communication flows in both directions through discussion and enhancing networking. The conferences include the participation of Laura Cleries from Elisava Research ; Francesca Tur from Trends TV ; Úrsula Uria from Nelly Rody ; Isabelita Virtual and Arrels & Hey Studio, among other professionals.
In addition to conferences and workshops, there will also be an exhibition of more than 300 unique products from a selection of 40 independent designers from Barcelona that will be on temporary display. On this occasion, the interior designer Luca Brucculeri has designed the layout of the exhibition together with Marcelo Vilá and Complás, which has been in charge of the decorative elements.
Other activities to emphasize are a photographic exhibition which will feature the creative process of several designers, the screening of the winning fashion films presented in the first edition of the Fashion Film Festival of Barcelona, and the presentation of FOD Awards for the best design in fashion and accessories.
You will find all the information explained in detail on the website of FOD, Future of Design Days. Run and get your tickets!
Thursday 21 September 2017
Who am I?
I define myself as a point of light trying to illuminate empty spaces through my clothes.
Where do I study?
I have just completed my degree in LCI Barcelona School of Design.
What have I specialized in?
I opted for general knowledge of the world of fashion as communication, design and pattern.
What is my style?
The best words to define it would be romantic and simple.
How will you recognize me?
When you see a tulle fabric in pale pink and gold … then you know it must be me.
What is my project?
The collection of my final project is called ‘Light in Space’ and talks about the mysteries of the children of lux. Those who have been sent to our planet to bring love, purity and wisdom to humanity. This inspiration is reflected in the colors and transparencies that remind us of the ethereal. That state of intermediate manifestation, between material and spiritual.
Where you can follow my tracks?
I am currently preparing for my next goal: to do a Master’s degree linked to fashion advertising. I also want to travel and learn different ways of working within the sector.
Where do I expect you to see me?
I hope that you see my creation in today ‘s woman: a woman who is determined but dreamy, practical but romantic.
Remember my name because …
Each of my garments should transmit magic, light and colour in a world that lacks it.
Gratacós for me …
Is the only place where purity becomes tulle, the constellations become paillettes and dreams becomeo beautiful gauzes full of light and colour.
I’ll buy it from the shop …
Embroidery of pale pink rhinestones to turn it into a loose palazzo-style mono that will be part of my next project.
Tuesday 19 September 2017
Sorry, this entry is only available in Español.
Thursday 14 September 2017
Sorry, this entry is only available in Español.
Thursday 07 September 2017
After New York and London it is the turn of Madrid in the month par excellence of the fashion catwalks. The Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid from today until September 19th becomes the creative universe for Spanish design in the 66th edition which will be held in Hall 14.1 of the IFEMA trade-fair in Madrid, as well as elsewhere in the Spanish capital.
In this edition, the fashion-parade is bringing together the creations of 47 designers and brands presenting innovations for next season, Spring-Summer 2018. New features are incorporated into the programme with offerings from the celebrated company Palomo Spain and from García Madrid, Isabel Núñez, Maria Clé, Manemané, Pepa Salazar, Chromosome Residence and Juan Carlos Pajares. The latter, who is a keen advocate of our fabrics, usually casts a glance in our direction through the designs he presents on the catwalk. We will see how he delights us this time…
Among the usual designers who each year are part of the calendar, Gratacos also wants to make special mention of Teresa Helbig, who will present the collection ‘ Rien ne va plus’ with three key fabrics: python, chainmail and eel-skin in a design inspired by the glamour of a luxury casino. For their part, The 2nd Skin Co will present a collection that gathers together and symbolizes the tenth anniversary of the brand through the fabrics, patterns, silhouettes and colours of the renowned Madrid company that extols the eternal femininity of women. Also featuring on the cat-walk will be Menchén Tomás. The company of designer Olga Menchén made its debut last year on the Madrid cat-walk and will be repeating the experience with its latest feminine collection.
Apart from the calendar of fashion-parades, from the MFBWMadrid we would like to highlight the featuring of OFF, where other aspects of fashion will be on show. Some have already taken place, such as the presentations by Duarte Madrid, Miguel Marinero, Pilar Dalbat and Moisés Nieto, whose year-by-year confidence in us we much appreciate. On 16th September parade by JCPajares will be held and on 21st September the presentations by Euphemio Fernández and The Stoat.
Lastly, one date we like to keep a close eye on is the fashion-parade of emerging talent held by Samsung EGO, which is a key element for show-casing the talent of new generations. As you well know, we are keen to support emerging designers. We won’t miss a single detail!
Gratacós “begins the school year” hosting in our shop in Barcelona the second edition of the conference Designers Fashion Experiences, some lectures given by designers who succeed in the fashion industry with their respective businesses. The goal is to share experiences, reflect situations, explain anecdotes to young fashion and design students to create synergies together. Some collect the testimony and others expose new ideas or situations in a kind of “face to face” where the barriers between experts and beginners are broken.
According to David Boix, organizer of the initiative, the second edition is optimistic: “We are very happy to be able to celebrate a new edition after the success of the first edition and we look forward to it with great joy and positivism.” Boix promises some changes in regards to the first edition. “We will delve into some issues such as brand identity, the fashion business or the threats and real fears that affect the sector,” he said. A consistent strategy to share more practical and real issues with the current situation, encouraging feedback from the students and increase participation in social networks.
The conference Designers Fashion Experiences will be supported by four designers spread over the four months of the last quarter of 2017. In this edition, Alejandro Resta, Núria Sarda, Francis Montesinos and Celia Vela will participate.
An ideal scenario
Gratacós is one of the sponsors of the presentations, but this year they have also divested part of their store to the development of the conference becoming an informative space where networking is promoted. “We are happy to hold the event in this space of great identity and passion for textiles,” says David Boix. And he adds: “It is a good reference for the fashion of Barcelona”. The conference will be held on the top floor of the store that will be equipped for the occasion, and facilitating also the lecturers and students with the possibility to show the fabrics of the season for the development of each talk.
David Boix: “We are happy to hold the event in this space of great identity and passion for textiles”.
The first meeting will be next Wednesday, September 13 with the Valencian designer Alejandro Resta. The get together is at 18:30. Get your invitation here. We hope to see you there!