There are calls that excite us because of the enormous expectations they generate and the success of participation that certainly endorse their popularity edition after edition. One of them is the Notebook of Trends by Nelly Rodi. This is an initiative that we have been promoting since last year to make known the main trends that will be of influence in the next year. It is a guiding compass of the colours, fabrics and prints that people will be talking about. This informative talk for design students will be led as always by Úrsula Uria, head of the prestigious research agency on trends in Spain.
This edition unveiled the four trends that will influence the summer of 2018, taking into account some of the global social, economic and cultural trends that influence fashion consumption. These factors are:
1. In times of crisis there is a resurgence of nationalist values. In this sense local consumption is prioritized and values such as origins and roots are given importance. This is especially evident in areas as diverse as music or cooking.
2. It is a time of rebellion. A consequence of the first macro trend. Tough times cause canons to be broken and new leaders, models and inspirations sought. In fashion there is a commitment to diversity of mannequins.
3. Consumers are rational. They know what they want, when they want it and how they want it and they apply intelligence above emotion. Purchases are no longer driven by impulse but by real needs. For example: healthy food with eco ingredients.
4. Free time is the new luxury. It is what is most appreciated in a society so busy with duties and obligations. Anyone who has time to travel, switch off and isolate themself … cherishes a real treasure.
Thus, taking into account these premises, the next Spring-Summer 2018 season will influence four trends in fashion: Booster, Horizon, Puzzle and Neodalisque.
A colourful trend based on a mix of technical and sports and inspired by the countries of South -East Asia, especially South Korea.
References: Pop music, smileys, digital language, geeky references, digital consumers, musical gadgets, futuristic inspiration from the 60s and 70s by Andrès Courreges and Paco Rabanne patterns.
Silhouettes: Priority given to collage, patchwork and patterning technique. The garments are very technical with ergonomic designs and volume is the name of the game.
Prints: Metallized dyes and surreal motifs.
Colours: Most are racy – pop – optimist shades – and the range of pastels is like mints. Explosive combinations like green with pink or violet with orange are all the rage.
Fabrics: Wearing of patent leather and fabrics with sparkles.
A minimalist trend based on yoga, meditation and slow lifestyle. Inspiration is to be found on surprise beaches facing the ocean.
References: A cooler interpretation of the sailor style and nautical universe, Loewe, Yohji Yamamoto, the Nordic countries, the beaches of Galicia, stones, handicrafts, fossils, ropes and hues of the sea on a cloudy day.
Silhouettes: Deconstructed, minimal air patterns, loose and light clothing.
Colours: Cold palette as blues, muted greens, grays and off – white.
Prints: Scarcely any prints. Prioritizing smooth garments.
Fabrics: Artisanal and light fabrics. Rough details.
A circus-influenced trend based on show and excess. More is more.
References: theatre, performing arts, surrealism, mix & match, the locker room of Circ du Soleil, the world of majorettes and most glamorous cowboy style. The trendsetters are Gucci, Prada and Roberto Cavalli.
Silhouettes: Mix of volumes, shoulders are the new stars, ruffles and styles taken to the extreme.
Colours: Chromatic chaos. Bright tonalities, fluorescent and contrasted with each other. Examples: orange with turquoise, pink with yellow…
Prints: stripes, zig-zag … The graphic nmotifs abound.
Fabrics: patent leathers
An oriental trend with ethnic roots based on the silk route. A step beyond the boho-chic style.
References: Persian culture, oriental minimalism, ceramics, details on cintería, Etro prints, trimmings, fruit elements, mosaics, antique vases, carpets and exoticism of Sri Lanka or India.
Silhouettes: very long garments in skirts, dresses and coats, kafkans, kimonos, harem pants.
Colours: Old gold
Prints: Prints of exotic flowers and cashmere.
This year celebrates its 70th anniversary and to commemorate this special date, the French maison has created an unprecedented exhibition to publicize the legacy of Christian Dior, as well as his exceptional talent with the needle.
Christian Dior, Couturier du Rêve
Under the name Christian Dior, a Couture Dream, the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris is hosting the major retrospective of Dior, the largest exhibition of the firm so far. The commemorative exhibition, which invites visitors to discover the universe of its founder, in addition to the creations of the six subsequent designers of the firm who succeeded him: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and, recently, Maria Grazia Chiuri. Emotions, life-stories, affinities, inspirations, creations and affiliations link this exquisite sample that gathers together more than 300 haute couture dresses designed from 1947 to the present. A special feature is one of the rooms, inspired by the Hall of Mirrors of the Palace of Versailles, which shows dresses worn by royalty, such as Grace of Monaco or Princess Diana, and other celebrities such as actresses Charlize Theron or Jennifer Lawrence, who are ambassadors for the company.
In parallel, and for the first time in such detail, there are workshop fabrics and fashion photographs, as well as several hundred documents: illustrations, sketches, images of reports, letters … and fashion accessories such as hats, jewelry, bags and shoes, among others.
Christian Dior was also an art lover and passionate about museums; more than seventy years of creations are also represented with paintings, furniture and artistic objects. These works highlight and prolong the look of Christian Dior by exploring the links he was able to to knit between sewing and all forms of art that define the imprint of the Maison. The two commissioners of the exhibition, Florence Müller and Olivier Gabet, reflected this dialogue via a chronological and thematic route that unites and occupies, for the first time together, the areas dedicated to fashion with those of the nave of the museum, thus adding 3,000 square meters of exhibition.
The exhibition opened on 5 July during Paris Haute Couture Week and will be open to the public until January 7, 2018.
Dior et Granville
In parallel with this great retrospective, the Christian Dior Granville Museum located in Normandy is participating in the celebration of the 70th anniversary with an unprecedented perspective on the local origins of the Dior style, born in this French city in 1905. The family home has in fact been fundamental with regard to the sources of inspiration of the designer and the exhibition pays homage precisely to that period of his life which is not so well known and which marked all his future creations. Among photos of the time and of his family, some of his most iconic costumes are on show, which cover both the history of the French maison and his importance for his country.
Christian Dior and Granville: the source of the legend is open to the public until the 24th September.
Designers confide in Gratacos to produce their designs. Proof of this is the presence of our fabrics in the garments exhibited at 080 Barcelona Fashion show.
On this occasion, artists such as Pilar del Campo, Colmillo de Morsa, Maria Roch, Gema Brain & Beast Sach confided in us and offered as every year transgressive catwalk creations with Gratacós fabrics. We paid attention to every detail to identify, at sight, some of the articles from the new season that you can already buy in our store.
Here are some references that did not go unnoticed:
1. Colmillo de Morsa
The debut of Elisabet Vallecillo and Javier Blanco in the Catalan catwalk did not disappoint. Creators Colmillo de Morsa presented the proposal ‘Preludio’ inspired by the romantic sensibility of Chopin and the relationship with the writer George Sand. On this occasion, the collection Autumn-Winter 2017 was presented with garments as evocative as the music of the show. On the catwalk we saw bermudas and trousers with burgundy crepe, a cotton bomber jacket, a shirt with mini flowers and a beautiful silk organza blouse with floral inlays.
2. Maria Roch
This Barcelona designer surprised with elaborate staging inspired by the kintsugi, the Japanese art of repairing ceramics with gold and silver adding beauty to the broken pieces with history. Under this common thread, Maria Roch presented an intimate collection with Japanese air that included ultra feminine fluid cuts dresses. Pastel colors were not lacking in the colour palette, as well as vibrant colors such as red, blue or grass green. We make special mention to the impressive lame in pearl tones seen on the catwalk.
3. Gemma Sach
The designer Gemma Sach, who has spent 25 years dedicated to fashion in the family business, debuted at 080 Barcelona Fashion with versatile garments from the ‘Eclipsi’ Autumn-Winter 2017 collection. Bright colors for the winter wardrobe, a variety of silks, treated velvets and sets of fabrics from the same range pursued by two of their principles: quality and comfort.
On a final note, we reveal details of some of the fabrics that you can already find in the store. Visit us and we will assist you!
The hottest month of the year coincides with the colour that makes us blush: flame red with orange hues that reminds us of flames in motion. This lively and passionate tonality ignites summer looks with its fascinating power of attraction.
This season red is being worn in monochrome blocks maximizing its visibility: carmine, garnet, red currant, scarlet or coral shades in matt or glossy fabrics. The key is the same colouration. On the catwalk, for example, companies such as Valentino have not hesitated in going for flame reds in dresses with subtle prints, Dior too with their transparent tulle skirts and Kenzo or Balmain with low - cut garments. As well Oscar de la Renta with ruffles on dresses, Salvatore Ferragamo with original two - piece suits or Isabel Marant, who presents this vibrant color with metallic sparkles in an throw-back to to outfits inspired by the eighties.
How to combine red?
Red is a flattering color that works by itself, although sometimes the combination with other tones makes it acquire new nuances. Beyond the classic blends with white or navy blue so characteristic of the looks of Mediterranean - style red is allied with other less frequent colours to take us out of our comfort zone. For example, Emilio Pucci goes for mixing it with turquoise, where red is relegated to the background. Valentino and Gucci intermingle it with pink in one of the most striking chromatic alliances. Meanwhile Balmain dares to align red with purple in a glaringly strident combination.
The reddish hues constitute one of our inspirations of the season, as you can see in the trend “Hawaiian Flower” on our website. In it you can find an assortment of fabrics with totally different textures, all with the same common denominator: red. Some flirt with floral lace, silk satin sheen, embossed mikados or jacquards with geometric motifs. Diversity is the taste.
At all events, we invite you to discover all the fabrics impregnated with the most ardent Pantone colour in our shop where we will be able to offer you further advice.
Our fabrics take different forms in singular creations that are a sample of the know-how of each artist of the needle. Sometimes they become handicrafts by private individuals, local or national designers, also hallowed companies that symbolize luxury and elegance.
This time Chanel used one of our embroidered fabrics of gold sequins to shape a draped mididress with a rigid structure and dizzy cleavage that was part of the ‘Paris Cosmopolite’ collection of Métiers d’Art presented in December at the Hotel Ritz in the French capital. The Prefall 2017 creation reverts to the most classic style, but with a modern touch, in an exercise to bring out the detailed work of master craftsmen in a family environment for the maison,friends of the company and its founder. “The Ritz Hotel is my house,” Gabrielle used to say. Indeed, Coco Chanel herself lived (and died in 1971) in this luminous space, between whites and golds and exotic furniture.
In this luxury home Karl Lagerfeld opted for reverting to the essential features of the maisonin a creation inspired by lunches such as those taken by Gabrielle in the last century and by her dress codes with the emphasis on sophistication. An ideal occasion to show suits in tweed – her emblematic fabric – elaborate dresses with embossed textures, skirts below the knee, revisited levitas, details in gem-stones and a great spectrum of metallic shades that add a glamorous touch to what is on offer from Chanel this autumn.
You will find similar fabrics with gold paillettes and metallized embroidery on our website and you will be thrilled with the results.
080 Barcelona Fashion is celebrating. The catwalk, which will take place from 26 to 30 June in the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau, is celebrating its 20th edition with a large fashion programme that goes beyond parades to include more parallel activities, business conferences, evening parties, special presentations and a guest of honour who will become one of the main advertisements for the Catalan catwalk.
The Missoni saga in Barcelona
In this edition, Margherita Missoni, third generation of the prestigious Italian firm, will collect the Fashion Tribute which the parade is devoting to his mother, Angela Missoni, current co – owner and creative director of the brand. In turn, Margherita will offer a talk about the Missoni saga and its influence on fashion entitled “The Missoni Family. Born into fashion “. This talk will be shared with Vogue ex-director Lisa Lowatt-Smith.
The debut of new talents
In the field of design there are some absentees, such as Sita Murt, Menchén Tomàs or TCN, but for the first time on the catwalk there are emerging talents like Mietis, Jnorig, AMT or the designers Colmillo de Morsa who we interviewed a few months ago. For the first time in Catalonia the designer Maria Roch will be in the parade with her feminine creations and the designers Elena Estaun and Gema Sach. They will join the catwalk cast along with the regular brands and designers from which we highlight Brain & Beast – whose daring and rebellious parade is always a must -. As is usual in summer editions, swimwear also takes centre stage on the catwalk with companies such as Red Point, Como un Pez en el Agua or Guillermina Baeza.
In total there are 37 designers and companies that will parade on the catwalk, with a clear modernist accent.
To commemorate the 20 editions held over the decade, 080 Barcelona Fashion has scheduled a special calendar among which is the presentation of the capsule collection by the Catalan company Macson, which is celebrating 75 years in the business. It sees the debut as designer of the choreographer and dancer Rafael Amargo, the concert by Andrea Motis which is part of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Nights and a special catwalk party entitled Anniversary party by Zalando. On the solidarity front the Catalan parade is also promoting a philanthropic action with the Casal dels Infants, by marketing a commemorative T – shirt designed from a figurine by the prestigious New York illustrator Rubén Toledo.
Finally, the parallel activities include the holding of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Showroom, which will be transformed into a fair and will be held on 28 and 29 June; it further includes the 080 Investor Day, the International Investment Forum of the Fashion Industry and the annual meeting of the textile-fashion sector, Texmeeting by TEXFOR.
Access all the programming of 080 Barcelona Fashion here.
In connection with young designers and the industry ‘s future we want to highlight the new edition of Barcelona Fashion Summit as a meeting of professionals in the fashion business. This time the conference will focus on the theme ‘Next Generation: the future of the fashion business’ with topics for analysis such as young business leaders, the new consumers, generational changes or new forms of management and business in the fashion industry.
Coinciding with the start of summer, La Roca Village houses one of the most impressive areas as an international window for local talent: the Barcelona Designers Collective. This successful platform celebrates its fourth edition for discovery, promotion and support of the talent, creativity, innovation and sustainability of Catalan design firms. It is a unique showcase that presents the talent of Catalan designers to the world and helps to position the city of Barcelona as a powerful reference in fashion, among other creative disciplines.
In this edition, inaugurated last Thursday, June 15, 70 designers and emerging talent selected by the FAD contribute 300 products of fashion, graphic design, product design, illustration, crafts, contemporary jewelry and art, as a new discipline that it is included in this so original temporary boutique . There is a selection of artworks by Safia art Contemporani with great names of pop art Andy Warhol, Basquiat, Haring or Lichtenstein among other conceptual artists. The art will unite with design by such established companies as Ana Tichy, Arrels BCN, CarlotaOms, Clara Niubó, Walrus Fang, Costalamel, Edgar Carrascal, IKA, Maria Roch, Miquel Suay, Mireia Playà, Pau Esteve, Rita Row, Ssic & Paul , Victor Von Schwarz, All Sisters, Berta Riera, Carla Garcia Durlan or Anna Grimal, among other participants who will be presenting their work at La Roca Village this summer.
Once again the design of the boutique will be a talking point. This edition features a light installation by the internationally renowned designer and ceramicist Xavier Mañosa from the studio Apparatu , which will undoubtedly draw the attention of visitors. Mañosa’s creation consists of 70 lamps representing the 70 talents participating in the Barcelona Designers Collective.
Another of the novelties of this year will be the development of design workshops aimed at a family audience, run by some of the talents participating in this or past editions.
Two exceptional guests at the opening
Apart from being a meeting point for emerging talent, Barcelona Designers Collective is also supported by the great and good. On this occasion two special guests will be present at the opening: the work of Javier Mariscal will also feature in the pop up together with the product of the designers and selected artists. Furthermore, during the summer months the Village will host a retrospective selection of his most recognized creations. In addition Roland Mouret, who celebrates 20 years as a designer, participated as special guest at the official presentation of the fourth edition of the project with an interesting talk entitled “In conversation with” where the celebrated designer, along with other experts, shared his professional experience and knowledge to inspire and guide the participants of this summer 2017 edition.
The pop up store Barcelona Designers Collective will be open until 30 August. A visit to discover and identify a significant sample of Catalan talent is strongly recommended..
Xevi Fernández is taking off with his own brand-name. From his atelier in Barcelona he works by order with a team of suppliers and soon he will be beginning international marketing. This September he will present in Madrid his third collection. It is an offering which presents fabrics, textures and colours that do not abandon the essence of the Empordà designer who has already won prizes in reputed competitions in Berlin and Bilbao. Let’s get to know more closely this disciple of Josep Font …
Your passion for fashion began in a haberdashery shop…
Yes, as a child I spent every afternoon in the family haberdashery in Bisbal de l’Empordà and I was surrounded by the women of the town who came to sew. I watched carefully what they did and I started to become interested in this world. Later I studied a style course and in ICM (Catalan Fashion Institute) I made patterns, which was what interested me the most. That was in 2010.
Little by little you found your place…
I went in for in several competitions and won them and this was an incentive to start my career as a designer. In the future I do not rule out collaborating with other brands, but now I want to focus on creating my own clothes.
“In the future I do not rule out collaborating with other brands”
What is your identity?
I have a hard time defining it because I do a little of what I like and the clientèle I cover is quite broad. Men, women, young or more mature.
Do not you think that diversification can be a handicap?
I do not see it that way myself although I have to confess that if it were only for me I would focus on men’s fashion.
So why do not you specialize?
As far as customers are concerned, women are the ones that people most design for, although this is changing and it seems to be balancing out. Men are more and more demanding and want to have the same possibilities as women. That is why I do not discount focusing on men’s fashion in the future
“Men are more and more demanding and want to have the same possibilities as women”
When did you start doing catwalk shows?
Last year with SAMSUNG EGO at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid. Now next September I will be presenting the third collection of young designers on the catwalk.
Why did you decide to go for Madrid?
Because right now it’s the only platform out there that gives visibility to emerging talent. The experience has always been very positive and I want to continue in the city. Yes, it is true that I appeared in a Modafad long ago in Barcelona, but it was not a competition and when I wanted to participate, the platform was already being dismantled.
What has it brought you?
A great deal! If I’m where I am, it’s thanks to EGO. They deal very well with the press and contacts … For me it has been a very good platform to get my work known.
“EGO is a very good platform to get my work known”
Can you give us more details about the new collection?
What I offer is much more commercial than experimental. I’ll leave aside some materials such as latex which on the catwalk are very flashy, but then don’t sell. In this new collection there will be a couple of pieces of latex so as not to break with the style, but the fabrics and colours that I will use will not be so acidic, but more neutral.
You’re going to tone down…
Without leaving aside the identity. First you seek to get attention and afterwards what you do is commercialized.
How do you work day to day in order to produce the orders?
I work in my atelier in Barcelona with a team that is not fixed because we work to order and I am collaborating with several professionals to produce each garment. I am in my studio alone and I organize things according to demand.
“First you seek to attract attention and afterwards what you do is commercialize”
You do not have marketing points, I suppose you live by word of mouth …
Now I will be starting an online marketing strategy with designer platforms and in parallel I will be looking for specific sales points.
We’re interviewing you when things are taking off…
What is your link with Gratacós and why are they worthy of your trust?
I discovered the shop when I was studying and always came looking for some fabric for my first collections. Then for me it was a little inaccessible given the prices compared to other businesses, although the quality of fabrics they have here is very high. When I was accepted to parade in Madrid I went straight to the shop and I took your advice when looking for the fabrics that had in mind.
“When I was accepted to catwalk in Madrid I went straight to Gratacós and took your advice”
Apart from the premium quality the proximity..
Totally and it is very easy to talk to you. The place is very cozy and aesthetic ally it is fantastic. I’m very happy!
What challenges do you give yourself after September?
We’ll see, I am now focused on making the collection that will be called ‘The Bird Boy’ and soon I will be entering into collaboration with a footwear brand.
The Gratacós questionnaire …
Your essential garment … A coat
A fetish fabric … The silk georgette
A color that you will never abandon … Yellow
The designer you admire … Josep Font
Unerring style rule … Use plenty of black
Your favorite area of Barcelona … Walking through the Eixample
A tip for designers starting … Consistency
Your ‘leitmotif’ … Follow your instincts
This season, satin is everywhere and is becoming suitable for all occasions, in addition to evening wear night and festive events. This fabric that is characterized by elegant exterior sheen and good consistency has appeared in the Spring-Summer 2017 collections in multiple versions. Let’s review the essential garments so you can be inspired…
1. ‘Sleep Dress’
Draper dresses continue in popularity and large firms are reluctant to abandon this garment that in a few years has made the jump from bed to the street. Thus this season they are no longer worn tight to the body and collections are going for more vaporous and loose models that enhance movement. The most favourable cut for this type of dress is below the knee with a length that varies until reaching the ankle with asymmetric cuts or minimalist style. These satin garments are fully versatile and support both heels and sneakers. On the catwalk they have appeared in satin lingerie brands like Narciso Rodríguez, Rag & Bone, Balmain, Prabal Gurung, among others in neutral or metallic shades.
The satin blouse is a classic of the wardrobe. The right clothing and fabric never go out of style and this one stands out for its extreme versatility, always providing an extra sophistication: it goes equally well at work, for a meeting or social event or for an informal encounter when combined with jeans. This season it is being worn with V-neck, buttons or with puffed sleeves.
3. Evening Dressing-Gown
It is the trend of the moment and a continuation of fashion lingerie imposed on the latest collections. This garment associated with luxury, eccentricity and dandyism is expanding horizons to conquer new audiences in more urban environments, positioning itself as a perfect alternative for casual wear. In summer prints conquer this satin garment : graphic motifs, stripes and oriental style flowers are the fashion. The evening dressing-gown works very well with smooth garments such as tops with straps or crop tops combined with shorts or slacks. On the catwalk, brands like Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, Gucci, Emporio Armani and Alberta Ferretti have opted for this centrepiece of the season.
In our shop we offer you satin fabrics of different shades and prints which allow you to create your favourite garment to your liking. Visit us and we will advise you!
The Museum of Design in Barcelona is renewing and expanding one of its most symbolic exhibitions dedicated to the art of dressing with the addition of 12 dresses by 7 new designers to become part of the museum’s collection. Thus the sample “The clothed body. Silhouettes and fashion (1550-2015)” of the curators Teresa Bastardes and Sílvia Ventosa will feature Lydia Delgado, Josep Abril, Teresa Helbig, Krizia Robustella, Miriam Ponsa, Txell Miras, Andrea Ayala, Carlotaoms, La Marthe, Ángel Vilda Celia Vela and Roser Marcé,among other Catalan designers. This re-inauguration took place last Thursday, June 1st and had the support of specialist designers and professionals in the sector.
The exhibition ‘The clothed body. Silhouettes and fashion (1550-2015)’ reviews the history of each era through the different ways of dressing, as governed by moral, social and aesthetic codes of the time. It is well known that fashion imposes canons of beauty and the silhouettes and volumes are modified: nature gives way to artifice. Throughout the last centuries dress has changed proportions and has modified the relation of a person with respect to space and other individuals.
This exhibition specifically reveals how dress modifies the appearance of the body through actions that alternately tend to constrain or liberate it, from the sixteenth century to the present.
Modifying the appearance of the body
The exhibition is structured in how each mode of dress modifies the appearance of the body. The garment:
The dress creates volume via internal structures or via stiff, full fabrics which separate it from the body. The designs widen the figure from the waist to the feet: farthingales, petticoats, crinolines and stowaways or they envelopand widen the silhouette: shawls and capes.
The dress diminishes the natural forms of the body, especially the chest and waist. In this respect the aim is to constrain the torso with corsets, doublets, fasteners and belts.
The dress stretches the image so the body looks taller. The accessories are designed to lengthen the figure: high heels and platforms, hairstyles, hats and dresses with long tails.
The dress follows the shapes of the body without modifying it. The complements help to mark the silhouette: stockings, gloves, swim-wear and t-shirts of knitwear and elastic fabrics.
The dress hints at the silhouette, shows legs and arms and reveals the skin. The garments reveal the figure: transparent fabrics, short dresses, sleeveless and low cut.