The Barcelona Bridal Week 2022 has closed the calendar of catwalk shows in the Catalan capital. The international bridal fashion fair, which was held from April 20th to 24th at the Fira de Barcelona, has opted for a return to normality with face-to-face fashion shows of 34 designers aimed at professionals and future brides. It also had a large exhibition space in which 320 brands linked to the bridal and festive sector have participated.

Gratacós did not want to miss the opportunity to once again watch the live fashion shows of the bridal designers who use our fabrics in the preparation of the new season collections. That is why we have been attentive to each look presented because we are amazed to see once again how our fabrics are transformed into sophisticated bridal designs. Here we share with you some of the most special bridal looks of the 2023 season.

Higar Novias

The Sevillian family business Higar Novias, founded in 1980, presented the ‘Origen’ collection, based on the dialogue between sewing and architecture. The new proposal is developed based on the most emblematic patterns, merging them with pure and current lines of contemporary architecture. If we focus on detail, throughout the collection the wide variety of sophisticated, feminine and contemporary designs can be appreciated. Enriched fabrics and single-colour jacquards predominate, coexisting in harmony with silhouettes and semi-transparent bodies, adorned with feathers, on fabrics rich in beading, which combine with wide tulle skirts and small shiny details.

On the other hand, the party collection combines the versatility of urban fashion and the elegance that characterizes Higar Novias designs so much. Maxi prints and embroidery are combined with a palette of bright colours in dresses fitted at the waist that take on volume in the skirts. Also to be highlighted are the rhinestones on low-cut bodies and very feminine mermaid silhouettes, which invite you to love fashion for special occasions.

Isabel Sanchis

Isabel Sanchis new collection is inspired by the cultural diversity that characterizes her clients from all over the world, as well as her way of understanding fashion. As a result, the Valencian designer has created pieces that are based on a worked prêt-à-porter, from geometric prints close to op art to sewing pieces with volumes and meticulously made handicrafts, which are part of the essence of the firm. Isabel Sanchis wanted to show the best of the brand, highlighting the craftsmanship and precision of detail. As for the colour palette of the new collection, in addition to black, always present in the Isabel Sanchis collections, a range of browns, oranges, pistachios and pinks have been introduced that bring optimism and passion for living.

Lorena Panea

Lorena Panea is an atelier and women’s brand that pays homage to the designs of Antiquity, creating exclusive and timeless bridal fashion for contemporary women. The young designer presented the ‘Anatolia’ collection on this occasion. A set of six boho-style wedding dresses, inspired by the ancient goddesses of Mesopotamia, Egypt and Asia Minor. The designs collect ethnic and nomadic influences from those caravans that travelled across the continents spreading ancestral beliefs and merging the cults of ancient deities. Each design is made up of worked fabrics such as lace, embroidered tulle and striking ornaments.

Nicolás Montenegro

Nicolás Montenegro recalls the testimony of the first interview he had with Rossy de Palma, muse and friend of the brand. Thus, ‘Savoir Fair’ is a precious and meticulous collection that is created based on the demand of clients who demand elaborate, different sewing and made with a selective sartorial pattern. The proposal is articulated through rich fabrics, such as silk tulle, Italian brocades and beading with embroidery made by hand on a frame, following Andalusian artisan techniques. Nicolás Montenegro’s girlfriend is undoubtedly a diva who feels unique and sure of herself.

Olga Macià

Olga Macià she is one of the revelation designers of bridal and party fashion. The creator who trained at the Felicidad Duce Higher School of Design and Fashion (FELI) hid the winning card at a wedding fair up her sleeve: the ‘Ace of Hearts’. This is the name of the new 2023 bridal proposal and festive collection that revolves around the symbolism of love. The proposal did not lack risky transparencies, vertiginous necklines, short designs with lengths and two-piece suits that merge with party dresses in energetic colours and bright tones. The fabrics are fantasy textures, flowers, transparencies, coloured sequins and impact nets.

YolanCris

Yolancris, the Spanish brand of design and craftsmanship of party and wedding dresses from the sisters Yolanda and Cristina Pérez, surprised once again at Bridal Week with its revolutionary designs that are born from the excellence of artisanal haute couture, accommodating every type and style of women. In diversity and in breaking with conventional bridal clichés, the firm finds a way to pay tribute to each woman by exalting her own personality. In the ‘Touch’ line, Yolancris extolled resilience, born during the pandemic, through anti-bride proposals that represented a new generation of brides with very particular tastes and needs. On the contrary, ‘Origins’ took up the essence of Yolancris, recovering the boho style for brides. Now, the ‘She’ collection continues with the values of Touch and Origins, but with a firm commitment that highlights the individuality and authenticity of each bride. A symphony of three styles: bohemian, anti-bride and haute couture in richer and more complex designs that adapt, better than ever, to the essence of each woman.

The new generations of bridal design

And who are the bridal designers of the future? IED Barcelona it is one of the best design quarries, a launch pad for young talents who graduate annually and await their first opportunity to enter the world of fashion. This year, the school renewed synergies with the Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week and was present at the world fair with a textile flower workshop that values sustainable design through the use of recovered haute couture fabrics. A raw material that Gratacós gave so that the students could recreate their designs. This event also served to celebrate a new edition of the Scolarship for Talent by Gratacós awards. On this occasion, the first prize went to Myriam Medina, a student on the Postgraduate Course in Wedding and Ceremony Dress Design, for the ‘Allegra’ model from the La Toscana collection, Siena. A proposal inspired by this region of central Italy that will be the star of the next showcase in May. Do not miss the opportunity to see the dress live in our space in Barcelona.

The bridal sector is in the process of transformation to adapt to the comings and goings imposed by the restrictions of the pandemic and the easing of lockdown phases. The coronavirus crisis has exploded directly and overwhelmingly, affecting all sectors: from restaurants, beauty centres to the textile sector. And for a year now, the world of wedding ceremonies has been stepping on the accelerator to adapt to these precipitous changes. 

The data speaks for itself: in 2020 around 125,000 events were postponed, according to data from the Association of Wedding Professionals of Spain (A PBE). Each of these cancellations has led to losses of about 25,000 euros and a total of 2 million jobs that could not be generated. Today, it is very difficult to predict when normality will return in the bridal sector: the pandemic and its consequent economic crisis will again generate uncertainty in 2021, and it is very possible that it will disrupt the calendar for the next two years. 

Within the textile sector, our main concern, the absence of new brides and the decrease in the number of guests at weddings, which are currently a lot more smaller and intimate, has led to a reduction in purchases of wedding dresses and also of raw materials, that is, fabrics. Reductions that have also harmed by extension wedding guest outfits and evening wear. 

Therefore, given this process of change and adaptation to the current situation, will it modify the traditional aesthetics of the dresses, the way of buying them or the amount of money that the brides invest?

It is not easy to know where the sector will go, but from Gratacós we continue to offer our bridal fabrics to all brides who are committed to getting married in these difficult times. As fabric manufacturers who analyze the large firms and specialized designers, we forecast some trends in dresses for brides of 2021 and 2022.

• The traditional bridal aesthetic loses strength

The traditional bridal aesthetic is maintained, but loses its steam. This trend is due to two factors: brides, both millennials and the first generation Z, prefer to break with the classic, daring with new silhouettes that go beyond the one-piece dress, such as the tailored jacket, whether it be either with trousers or with a tube skirt. An opportunity to blur the classic conceptions about how a bride should be dressed. On the other hand, the more intimate, private and informal celebrations influence the wardrobe with more relaxed outfits that avoid the rigid and corseted.

In terms of styles, two antagonistic trends converge: the return of minimalism with its elegant simplicity versus overloaded romanticism. The first style involves plain dresses with clean, structured and reusable lines. If the economy in 2021 and 2022 will be more austere, it is consistent that this shall be reflected in wedding dresses. This minimalist trend is also committed to simplicity and comfort through pieces that facilitate movement and can be adapted in multiple contexts. At the other extreme, the romantically inspired dresses with their volumes, overlays, lace and ruffles refuse to disappear. A type of outfit for dreamy brides who want to enjoy their wedding in a memorable tailored dress. These dresses are rich in fabrics with special attention to those that provide greater opulence: tulle, embroidery, ornamental effects, floral applications …

If it is true that, halfway to minimalism and opulence, there are endless proposals that balance the scales with dresses that merge the two trends and go out of their way for the detail that is perceived in the pleats, in the drapes, the details on the shoulders or unexpected openings. Also gaining importance are dresses with volume and wide skirts through patterns which expand at the hem to give them more prominence

In parallel, in recent years ready-to-wear collections have emerged that complement the dress with much more informal and versatile pieces. These can be custom-made or mass-produced. There is also an upward trend in vintage accessories that give a new retro to the bridal look. For autumn and winter weddings, outerwear has found a new source within instability: capes, cardigans, coats in the same fabric as the dress …, as well as various accessories that adorn the bride.

• Focus on the detail

The detail is what matters. Regardless of the bridal style chosen, there are some trends that have taken hold in recent years. One of them has to do with the sleeves that are taking centre stage in wedding dresses. Long sleeves, puffy sleeves, tightly gathered at the elbows or cuffs, puffed sleeves, and sleeves with very pronounced shoulders are worn like blazers inspired by the 80s.

As for collars and necklines, pronounced cuts coexist with closed ones and overlays gain importance. In turn, the reign of flowers is threatened by a new detail that is gaining presence in more and more bridal designs: feathers. A resource that adds elegance, delicacy and movement to the wedding dress. Finally, something curious we want to mention that we have perceived within the Baroque style: the veil is back in fashion and everything indicates that the trend will continue and increase in the coming years.

• Trends in fabrics

As textile manufacturers, in Gratacós we have a specific collection , which is renewed every year, so brides can order their own design of dress. In terms of consumer trend, we do see certain changes. Organza is one of our star fabrics if we take into account that the most popular wedding dresses are those with volumes, layers and transparencies. This organza is worked with embroidery, net lace and even 3D flowers. Crepes with rustic touches, wrinkled-effect fabrics and brocades also gain relevance. In fact, there is a growing demand for handicrafts and a return to details such as trimmings and embroidery. At the other extreme, satin fabrics are ideal for plain, lingerie-type dresses.

Come to our shop in Barcelona to discover the new collection of bridal fabrics!

Gratacós leaves Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week 2017 with a summary of the winning projects of the contest ‘Gratacós Barcelona Scholarship for Talent’ with design school IED Barcelona. It is a prize for of preparing a wedding gown by moulage technique that is being awarded, once again, to support young students of the Postgraduate Diploma in Design of Bridal and Ceremonial Dress. For this latest award the entries of Catalina Olmedo and Valeria Antonova are already on display in the window of Gratacós and also in the lobby of the Hotel Majestic. The winners have also received a cash prize to the value of € 500 to purchase fabrics from our store. Below we reveal more details of each showcase as well as of the designer behind it.

GRATACÓS SHOP-WINDOW

Argentina’s Catalina Olmedo is inspired by the French film “La Belle Personne” to recreate her dress’ Inside Me’. It is a passionate drama that serves as a starting point for a design full of ambiguities: the fragile with the strong. “I wanted to express this duality via a soft fabric that is fighting to emerge from a rigid structure,” she says. For this, the designer has used simple organza and mikado. “The organza represents delicacy with respect to the mikado, which expresses hardness”, explains Catalina.

Catalina Olmedo began her career in Buenos Aires studying garment design and after working in the Argentinian company House of Matching Colors of Paula Selby Avellaneda she moved to Barcelona to specialize in bridal fashion. Now that she has completed the Postgraduate Diploma in Brical and Ceremonial Design at the school IED Barcelona, Olmedo is continuing her training at Rosa Clará although she has her own aspirations. “My idea is to continue my training in these large bridal companies to be able to create my own workshop in Argentina where I can make my designs,” she explains. These creations make use of the technique of moulage to create unique products in accord with the style and personality of each bride. “I would like to be able to reflect an individual’s soul in each design,” adds Catalina.

She continues to enjoy her period of apprenticeship and Catalina thanks us for this award with sincere words. “I am grateful to the school and to Gratacos for giving me this opportunity. It has been a great challenge, ” she concludes.

Congratulations Catalina!

HOTEL MAJESTIC SHOP-WINDOW

When they called her cell phone to announce the award, Valeria Antonova could hardly believe what she was hearing. “I had not done anything in moulage before, although I put all my effort, energy and time into doing this design,” she explains, visibly excited.

The Russian designer residing in Barcelona has been inspired by one of her favorite styles: Art Deco of the early 20th century. “My design is inspired by an era which was very rich on an artistic level,” she adds. Architectural patterns, ornamental details and fabrics which interplay to create strategic volumes are the main reasons behind her winning design. “I used organza to mark the body of the silhouette and satin crepe for the bottom of the dress,” she explains excitedly.

“My goal right now is to make my own bridal fashion brand,” Valeria declares . ” And she goes straight to the point. “I already have the website, the cards and I am looking for premises and making contacts with suppliers. In this respect, of course I have Gratacós, “adds the young designer. Meanwhile, Valeria Antonova continues on her learning curve in the workshop of Jordi Anguera, learning the techniques of pattern-making deepening her knowledge of moulage. ” I don’t have a lot more to learn,” she concludes.

Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.

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