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After the valuable teaching imparted by Alejandro Resta and Núria Sarda, this month one of the big needles has come by the Gratacós space : Francis Montesinos. The popular Valencian designer took over the show in the third presentation organized by the initiative Designers Fashion Experiences for the second year running during the autumn months . With a casual language, some humour and a rich portfolio of anecdotes that review his extensive career in the sector, Montesinos knew how to win the love of the public (students and lovers of fashion in general) who did not hesitate to write down the advice and learn from the ins and outs of his professional career.

We review some of the questions from the interview as well as their answers. For even more detail you can read the information on the website Designers Fashion Experiences.

How does Francis Montesinos understand fashion?

Fashion is my way of life. I started when I was very young, when I was about 14 years old, I began to know it existed and I was already browsing to find out more about it. At 15, I started creating clothes. At that time I had a girlfriend and I made her clothes: I went to the fabric stores, I looked at the magazines … I discovered how things were done like a collar or sleeves. Without realizing it, I learned the first part of fashion, a part that is not real but wonderful.

Remind us of those beginnings after that first phase and, how was the sector in the 70s?

At that time there was nothing in Valencia and in 1974 I came to Barcelona. I have to add that everything I had learned did not help me at all. I remember that I started in the industrial area of ​​Barcelona and that’s where I set up my first workshop. I was very lucky because I lived a moment of change, of transition between haute couture and prêt porter -A- and I could count on the expertise of the pattern makers . In 1984, I went to Madrid, where the Madrid movement started, but in fact it was also made up of designers from all over Spain. Also to mention that I lived the hippie movement in Spain that also influenced my collections. That’s why I tell you that I’ve had the good fortune to experience two great changes in fashion and learn from them.

“The Madrid movement and hippie movement have influenced my designs”

What is the value and importance of the fabrics?

At that time I liked fabrics a lot, like I do today. I remember going to markets to touch the fabrics, to feel their shape and to imagine what I would do with them. It was as if the fabric was telling me what to do with it, not the other way around. That is why I always say the same thing: it is very important to touch a fabric, appreciate it and know what you will do with it. Personally, I like natural and organic fabrics like cottons, silks, wool … I think they are more authentic.

What values ​​would you like to transmit to the new generations?

Perseverance. I think you do not have to get tired of yourself, you have to learn to turn things around, to do new things without losing the signs of identity that is the most important thing in your career. In my case, prints with unique colors identify my work. In this profession you also have to be fast and patient at the same time and it is very difficult to achieve both simultaneously.

Francis Montesinos will have experienced some failure …

Yes. In the whole of my career I only decided to close once because of a mistake in the past in the registration of the brand that got me into debt financially and damaged my creativity, but then fortunately I saw that it was nonsense and I decided to fight. I promised myself that I would get back up, and I did.

“It is very important to touch a fabric, appreciate it and know what you will do with it”

What are the keys to success in each parade? It is the work of a team that is exposed in just a few minutes…

I am one of the few who do everything. I want to say that I do not let anyone put the music on, the lights, the outfits … Now I do not get as nervous as before because I have a team of young people who know how to do everything.

What is the importance of interpreting a design? The work of the designers and seamstresses …

I remember Mrs. Concha, who was the head of the workshop, she had the upmost patience to make me see how important her profession was because I gave more importance to design than to the production. From this I learned a valuable lesson: the day you find a pattern maker, treat her with love because they are worth gold.

How do you deal with the ego?

I have never thought about being famous. Never in my life. I have always thought that I like this profession and that I want to learn from it every day. I enjoy my profession and thats it.

What is your best design?

The best design I’ve done is the one I have not done yet because once I’ve made a design I do not like it anymore. I mean, once I created it, it has lost the mystery. I’m passionate about doing something new.

“I have never thought about being famous”

Who would you like to dress up?

I ‘ve already said it on previous occasions that I like to undress more than dress -he laughs-. I believe that there must be a communion between the brand and the client . If you do not like it, you will not wear the dress, that is obvious.

And finally, tell us about the business. How to survive?

The textile business has always been very problematic and the “rag” is what gives you the least money. There are other aspects that are more profitable, such as designing a pair of glasses, a mobile phone … You have to try to work your way up bit by bit.

Last week we had the pleasure of welcoming to Gratacós Núria Sardà, designer for the women ‘s lingerie company, Andres Sarda. Nuria has continued the legacy of her father by maintaining the essence of the brand, one that combines sophistication, elegance and femininity with soft linen garments, lightweight shapes and fascinating colours that embellish every woman’s body. Within the framework of the conference Designers Fashion Experiences Nuria explained to those present the keys to success, which also deal with the adaptation and evolution of the brand to the new demands of the market. She left them with some valuable advice.

We interviewed Núria Sardà to learn about some of her concerns. Remember that you can recover the conversation we had last week on the website of Designers Fashion Experiences.

Why have you participated in the initiative Designers Fashion Experiences?

I like to support new designers as much as possible and these conferences seem to me a good reason for doing so. In addition the organization has given me a lot of confidence.

Andres Sarda has extensive professional experience which unites generations of the same family. What can you explain from your own experience?

Each person lives their own experience and it is always good to know it firsthand. In this day-session I have focused on the opportunities and also on some obstacles that I have had in my career.

I gather that your passion for design is inherited …

Not really, I never thought about dedicating myself to the world of design. I never chose this profession, but life led me to choose it .

“I never chose this profession, but life led me to choose it “

If you could go back in time, would you go back to design?

Yes, it’s a very stressful, fun and changeable job. It allows you to meet interesting people and tour the world. My daily routine is not strictly routine and allows me to express all my creativity. It is also true that it is a world where you are very exposed and your creations are judged severely by the company, the business world and lastly the customers. In this sense if everything goes well it is fantastic, but you also suffer because in each collection you put head, heart and soul. And there are many hours of work!

What obstacles are there in the fashion industry?

More than obstacles, I would call it circumstances. The offer, the distribution, the customers and their motivations. In this sector everything changes very quickly. We companies have to adapt to changes and advance according to to market movements.

“In every collection you put head, heart and soul”

Then adaptation is a tool that ensures survival. Which would you most emphasise?

From my point of view you need to have your personality in the creations, the quality and the reliability of the product and the company. This has to be coupled with adaptation and evolution of market needs, as I said previously.

What do you recommend to future designers?

That they should do what they do, make sure that their work is always original and that they contribute some innovation. Let them follow their instinct and never give up.

“We always have to look for excellence in everything we do”

Tips that might be a good leitmotiv…

Yes, we always have to look for excellence in everything we do.

Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.

After New York and London it is the turn of Madrid in the month par excellence of the fashion catwalks. The Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid from today until September 19th becomes the creative universe for Spanish design in the 66th edition which will be held in Hall 14.1 of the IFEMA trade-fair in Madrid, as well as elsewhere in the Spanish capital.

In this edition, the fashion-parade is bringing together the creations of 47 designers and brands presenting innovations for next season, Spring-Summer 2018. New features are incorporated into the programme with offerings from the celebrated company Palomo Spain and from García Madrid, Isabel Núñez, Maria Clé, Manemané, Pepa Salazar, Chromosome Residence and Juan Carlos Pajares. The latter, who is a keen advocate of our fabrics, usually casts a glance in our direction through the designs he presents on the catwalk. We will see how he delights us this time…

Among the usual designers who each year are part of the calendar, Gratacos also wants to make special mention of Teresa Helbig, who will present the collection ‘ Rien ne va plus’ with three key fabrics: python, chainmail and eel-skin in a design inspired by the glamour of a luxury casino. For their part, The 2nd Skin Co will present a collection that gathers together and symbolizes the tenth anniversary of the brand through the fabrics, patterns, silhouettes and colours of the renowned Madrid company that extols the eternal femininity of women. Also featuring on the cat-walk will be Menchén Tomás. The company of designer Olga Menchén made its debut last year on the Madrid cat-walk and will be repeating the experience with its latest feminine collection.

Apart from the calendar of fashion-parades, from the MFBWMadrid we would like to highlight the featuring of OFF, where other aspects of fashion will be on show. Some have already taken place, such as the presentations by Duarte Madrid, Miguel Marinero, Pilar Dalbat and Moisés Nieto, whose year-by-year confidence in us we much appreciate. On 16th September parade by JCPajares will be held and on 21st September the presentations by Euphemio Fernández and The Stoat.

Lastly, one date we like to keep a close eye on is the fashion-parade of emerging talent held by Samsung EGO, which is a key element for show-casing the talent of new generations. As you well know, we are keen to support emerging designers. We won’t miss a single detail!